Uttara Gonobhaban: A Palace of Maharajas

Uttara Gonobhaban is perhaps the least visited tourist destination in Bangladesh. However, its rich historical background, popular heritage, and beautiful surroundings have made it a favorite destination for vacationers to plan their holiday trip. From the late seventeenth century until the mid-twentieth century, it served as the residence for seven generations of kings. The picturesque narrative of this site makes it one of the most sought-after tourist attractions, where visitors can spend quality time with their family and friends. It is commonly known as the Dighapatia Rajbari. 

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History:

Dighapatia Rajbari is commonly referred to as Uttara Gonobhaban in Natore, North Bengal. This nearly three-hundred-year-old palace was first built by Raja Dayaram Roy, the founder of the Dighapatia dynasty. However, at the beginning of his life, he served as the dewan for Raja Ramjivan Roy, the first Raja of the Natore Raj family. In 1716, he led the army of Ramjivan Roy and, with the help of the Nawab of Bengal, successfully defeated the rebellious Raja Sitaram Ray, a zamindar (landlord) of the neighboring Bhusna state. Because of his loyalty, diligence, and efficiency, Ramjivan rewarded him with a substantial amount of land in the Rajshahi, Bogra, and Jessore districts. Utilizing these land grants, he established the Dighapatia estate in 1734. 

In 1897, the Uttara Gonobhaban was reduced to ruins after being hit by a devastating earthquake that lasted almost 18 minutes. Pramada Nath Roy, the sixth king of the dynasty, then restored and reconstructed the Rajbari of Dayarampur, a process that spanned 11 years from 1897 to 1908, with the help of foreign experts, engineers, artists, and local craftsmen. 

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The last king of the Uttara Gonobhaban Palace, Protiva Nath Roy, left for Kolkata following the partition of 1947 and the abolition of the zamindari system under the East Bengal State Acquisition and Tenancy Act of 1950, a law passed by the newly formed democratic government of East Bengal in the Dominion of Pakistan.

On July 24, 1967, Abdul Monem Khan, then Governor of East Pakistan, declared it to be the official residence of the governor. On February 9, 1972, after the independence of Bangladesh, Prime Minister Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, the Father of the Nation, declared it Uttara Gonobhaban, an official residence of the Prime Minister in northern Bangladesh.

Opens to visitors:

Prior to its public opening, the palace served as the official residence of the Prime Minister of Bangladesh. The current administration has since decided to open it to the public. On October 25, 2012, State Minister for Youth and Sports, Ahad Ali Sarkar, inaugurated Uttara Gonobhaban for visitors. It is now open daily from 11:00 am to 4:00 pm. Guests must purchase tickets priced between Tk 10 and Tk 20, allowing 30 minutes inside the palace compound. For security, local authorities have installed CCTV cameras and a metal detector.

Main attractions:

The entire Uttara Gonobhaban Palace is a testament to architectural excellence. Many visitors from across the world come to this historical site to admire its beautiful structural design. Upon arrival, visitors are bound to be amazed by its serene atmosphere and the chirping of various bird species. The ancient palatial houses and other installations, which indicate the dominance of past rulers, arouse joy and a sense of nostalgia for long-gone days. Without a doubt, many beautiful features of the site will inspire visitors to return for a second visit. 

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Arched entrance gateway:

The first thing that draws visitors’ attention is its arched entrance doorway, positioned at the center of the eastern outer wall. This three-story pyramidal gateway features equally shaped rooms connected internally on both sides. On each side of the entrance path, there are coiled wooden staircases that provide access to the first and second floors. At the top of the structure, there is a large clock accompanied by two circlets. This clock resembles a replica of ‘Big Ben’ in the UK. It is said that King Dayaram imported this clock from England. Beside the clock, there is a large bell. In the past, the sound of the bell could be heard from far away. The chauchala structure atop the gate gives it a pyramidal look. The exterior of the front gate, which extends over a hundred feet, has been painted red.

Main palace building:

The entrance gateway, adorned with greenery and gardens, guides visitors to the main palace building. This single-story building has nine bedrooms, a conference room, a reception hall, a dining room, and a dance room. The reception hall stands out from the other rooms because on top of it is a large dome built in 1967. The entire dome is decorated with a star design. Aside from this feature, the roof of the palace is flat and constructed with iron beams to support the weight of the roof. Notably, the steps of the veranda and the floors of the rooms are made of white and black geometric shaped marble stones. Perhaps the most aesthetically pleasing arrangement is the flower garden with a water fountain situated in front of the southern veranda of the main palace. There are four vessel motifs on both sides of the fountain, with two on each side. On the four corners of the garden, there are four marble statues of women that imitate ancient Greek architecture. The height from the ceiling to the floor of the reception hall is more than 25 feet, making it much taller than the adjacent rooms. A painted floral motif decorates the ceiling, enhancing the beauty of the palace. Additionally, there is a single-story ‘Rani Mahal’ (Queen’s Palace) located to the south of the main palace block.

Kumar Palace:

The literal meaning of the word ‘Kumar’ is ‘Prince.’ The Kumar Palace, also known as the Yellow Building, is a two-story structure located to the southeast. It stands between the entrance gateway and the main palace compound. The ground floor contains several rooms. These were apparently used as storerooms. The first floor consists of five rooms, including four main bedrooms and a dressing room. A notable aspect of its construction is the use of mosaic on the floors of the rooms and verandas. The central hall is an exception. For safety and durability, the roof is enclosed by a parapet wall. Another distinctive feature is the floral design on a broad frieze. It runs below the cornice of the outer walls on the north, west, and south sides.

Khazanchi Khana:

The term refers to the Treasury Lobby, which is positioned directly behind the Kumar Palace. Specifically, this single-story structure stands between the Main Palace and the Kumar Palace. The building is arranged around an open courtyard and features twenty-six rooms distributed along its sides. On the north façade, a corridor stretches from east to west, fronted by a veranda with an arcade of five pointed arches. Additional verandas are located on the east, west, and north sides of the central courtyard, giving the building both functionality and symmetry.

Italian Garden:

The most remarkable feature of this palace is the Italian Garden. King Dayaram imported much of its furniture from Italy, which is why it is known by this name. Within the garden, visitors can see five marble statues, a fountain, and a sitting bench. Interestingly, the benches were brought from Kolkata, and the word “Kolkata” is still inscribed on their surface. Among the statues, one titled “The Daughter of the Mountain” has a broken hand. According to local accounts, looting occurred during the Liberation War of 1971. The statue’s wrist, once adorned with gold, was broken by Pakistani soldiers who stole the ornament.

Temples:

So far, you have read vivid descriptions of palaces and monuments. Building upon these, a large Mandir Bari (temple complex) of the Dighapatia Raj lies about half a kilometer southeast of the Rajbari. This complex includes four temples: Durga Mandir, Kali Mandir, Radha-Krishna Mandir, and Dhulan Mandir. The architectural design of these temples differs from that of the more ancient ones. Their flat-roofed architecture suggests they are less than 100 years old. The complex is also widely known as the Dighapatia Raj Debottar Estate. 

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Sculptures:

Although the palace grounds were ravaged several times throughout history, some exquisite remnants still exist, such as neo-classical bronze Greek sculptures, flower pots, chandeliers, engraved wooden bedsteads, princely furniture, and light fixtures. There are also two armored knights in the main entrance hall. 

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Location:

The Uttara Gonobhaban is three kilometres away from Natore town in North Bengal under the Rajshahi division. It is located to the east of the Natore-Bogra highway. The approximate distance from Dhaka via the Rajshahi highway is 205.8 kilometers. It may take 4–5 hours to reach the spot.

Transportation:

Direct bus service is available from different points in Dhaka. Locations from where you can get a direct bus to Natore are Kallyanpur (Mirpur Road), Panthapath (Kalabagan), Gabtoli (Mirpur), and Abdullahpur (Uttara).
It is also possible to go there by train. All you have to do is get on the Dhumketu Express train from Kamalapur Railway Station and get down at Rajshahi or Natore.

List of hotels, boarding and rest houses:

In Natore, there are a number of affordable hotels, boarding houses, and rest houses where you can stay. Some of the famous hotels, guest houses, and boarding houses are Hotel VIP (Borohorishpur), Hotel Millat (Madrasha More), Hotel Rukhsana (Kanaikhali, Old Bus Stand), Natore Boarding (Nichabazar, Hospital Road), Hotel Prince (Railway Station Bazar), Hotel Raj (Madrasha More), Natore Sugar Mills Guest House (Natore Sugar Mills area), and Hotel Nice International (Shaheb Bazar). 

Ratargul Swamp Forest: The Amazon of Bangladesh

It is an enormous forest where rows of trees stand in a wetland. Their trunks are submerged in water. This woodland is so dense that even the scorching sunlight cannot penetrate the leaves to reach the water below. That is why a large portion of this forest remains greenish in color. When you look around, all you see are water and trees. The highland is beyond your sight. It may give you the impression that you are trapped in a submerged forest. This is not the end. There is danger everywhere. While exploring this jungle, visitors may come across snakes hissing from nearby trees and anonymous birds flying overhead. Apart from the sound of water droplets and the rustling of the wind, no other noise will reach your ears. Birds such as eagles and vultures perch atop the trees, waiting for their prey. Upon reading such a description, the first thought that may come to your mind is the Amazon forest. However, you will be astonished to know that this narrative is about Ratargul Swamp Forest. It bears a striking resemblance to the Amazon. Because of this similarity, it is often referred to as the Amazon of Bangladesh. 

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In the local language of Sylhet, the Murta plant, the raw material of which is used for making Shitalpati, is known as “Ratagach.” This forest is named Ratargul after this Murta, or Ratagach, tree.

Brief history:

It is essential to have basic information about Ratargul Swamp Forest before planning your visit. It is the only recognized swamp forest in Bangladesh. Moreover, it is one of the twenty-two freshwater swamp forests globally, which attracts visitors from both within the country and abroad. In the Indian subcontinent, there are only two of them—one is located in Sri Lanka, and the other is in our nation. The water in this forest is as clear as crystal. You can not only see the reflections of the trees in the water, which makes the water appear green, but you can also see the bottom layer. The Government of Bangladesh has taken measures to preserve this forest under the Department of Forestry.

As the season changes, the beauty of this forest changes too. For this reason, it looks different in different seasons. The diversity of its natural environment draws the attention of tourists throughout the year. However, the best time to visit Ratargul is during and after the rainy season.

Ratargul Swamp Forest is connected to the Gowain River via a lake named Chengir Khal. During the rainy season, water coming from the hills of India flows into the lake through the river and submerges the entire forest. This state of weather remains the same from May to early October, and the temperature stays around 32 degrees Celsius. It drops to 12 degrees Celsius in January. During the monsoon season, the depth of water ranges from 20 to 30 feet, while the water level decreases to 10 feet throughout the rest of the year.

However, during the winter season, we can see a completely different scenario. The forest becomes dry at this time, and only the water reservoirs excavated inside the forest retain water. This area transforms into a sanctuary for migratory birds.

If you visit Ratargul Swamp Forest, you can try kayaking. The thrill you experience while navigating a kayak is distinctly different from traveling by boat. With a kayak, you can enter any part of the forest and stop whenever you wish, something a boat cannot offer. Once inside the forest, take a moment to sit silently in the kayak, where sunlight cannot penetrate due to the dense trees. All around, even in broad daylight, you can hear the chirping of crickets, the murmur of the stream, the sudden flapping of birds’ wings, and see huge trees rooted in the water, along with the panoramic views from the watchtower. Above all, you are bound to be impressed.

Location:

To visit this marshland forest, travelers will have to go to Gowainghat Upazila of Sylhet Division. This unique swamp forest is located approximately 26 kilometers from Sylhet city. The total area of the forest spans 30,325 acres, of which 504 acres were declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1973.

How will you go there?

If you reside in Dhaka or any other division of Bangladesh, you must travel to Sylhet first. From Sylhet, your next destination will be Ratargul. There are two primary routes to get there. The choice of which route to take is entirely yours.

Firstly, let us discuss the easiest route to reach Ratargul Swamp Forest. To do this, you need to hire an autorickshaw from Ambarkhana Point in Sylhet city. The journey may take approximately one and a half hours to reach Motorghat. From there, you can rent either an engine-driven boat or a regular boat, which will probably cost Tk 300–400 per person. After your visit, you will return to Sylhet using the same route.

The second option is expensive as well as time-consuming. If you intend to visit Jafflong at the same time on the same route, you can proceed with this plan. This journey also requires the use of two boats to navigate through the forest. You may opt for an autorickshaw from Ambarkhana Point in Sylhet city or take a bus bound for Jafflong from Sobhanighat as your mode of transportation. Whatever transport you choose, you have to travel to Gowainghat Upazila, which is approximately a two-and-a-half-hour journey. After reaching there, you have to hire an engine-run boat for a round trip on a contract basis. It may cost around Tk 1,500. Boarding this boat, you will have to go to the Forest Bit Office of Ratargul. There, you have to shift to smaller boats to enter the forest.

If you are visiting for the first time, it is better to hire a guide. A guide may charge BDT 150 per hour.  

Flora and Fauna:

The presence of different species of plants and animals has significantly enhanced the appeal of this forest. To date, it is home to 73 species of plants, which cover 80 percent of the forest with their upper parts, commonly referred to as the umbrella of the trees. While exploring the forest, visitors will often see Banyan trees. Apart from these, one can see Millettia pinnata (Koroch tree), Barringtonia acutangula (Hizal tree), Sacred Garlic Pear or Temple Plant, and Alstonia scholaris (Chatim tree). Although it is a natural forest, the Forestry Department of Bangladesh has planted several aquatic plants, including Calamus tenuis, Burflower Tree, Schumannianthus dichotomus, etc.

After exploring Ratargul Swamp Forest, you may feel tempted to swim in the water. However, do not attempt to do so because this submerged area is inhabited by numerous venomous and dangerous animals, most of which live underwater. Snakes and worm snakes are frequently seen in this waterlogged forest. In the dry season, mongooses can be spotted. Additionally, this area is inhabited by monkeys, water monitors, insects, and various bird species, including Heron, Egret, Kingfisher, Parrot, Bulbul, Swan, Dove, Waterfowl, Eagle, and Kite. The best time to watch Cotton Pygmy Geese, migratory birds, and the nearly extinct Vulture is during the winter season. It is also a source of several local fish species, including Batasio, Rita, Pabda, and Rohu.

Precautions:

This submerged forest is not a safe destination for tourists who lack swimming skills. Boats may capsize and cause the death of visitors. To prevent drowning due to a boat accident, you should wear a life jacket. During the rainy season, when the water level rises, venomous snakes take shelter in the trees. If you visit the place at this time, avoid touching the trees or water carelessly. For added safety, you can also carry carbolic acid.

Food and accommodation facilities:

There is no good restaurant close to Ratargul Swamp Forest. Therefore, visitors are advised to collect any food items they need from Gowainghat Bazaar. In Sylhet city, there are several high-quality hotels. You can choose any of the hotels according to your needs and budget. It is heard that the Department of Forest is building a rest house for tourists. It will undoubtedly help provide accommodation for them.

In the end, I would like to request everyone to refrain from polluting the forest by littering empty bottles, packets of chips, and biscuit packets here and there. We must remember that this is our valuable resource, so it is our responsibility to keep it neat and clean. 

Sajek Valley: The Land of Clouds

Sajek Valley is perhaps one of the most sought-after tourist destinations for travel lovers. Its stunning natural beauty has earned it the name the queen of the hills. This is not an exaggeration. If we conduct a survey to determine the most beautiful locations in Bangladesh, this undulating area will undoubtedly secure the top position. Because of its lush greenery, pleasant weather, and tranquil atmosphere, it is often referred to as the paradise of Bangladesh. It is also known as the roof of Rangamati. 

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Explorers call Sajek Valley the land of clouds. A team of clouds plays here, surrounded by picturesque mountains and dense forests. Walking through the clouds and feeling them with your hands will make anyone excited. Traveling to Sajek through the kingdom of clouds along the zigzag, up-and-down hilly roads, which resemble giant snake spirals, is truly something great.

The panoramic view of the countryside from the top of the mountain and the waves of clouds will fascinate visitors. It is an all-weather tourist spot where tourists can experience different types of weather in a single day. In the morning, the surrounding area is covered with thick clouds, which prevent one from seeing the bottom while standing on top of the mountain. 

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Sajek derives its name from a river that flows into the Karnafuli River in the Chittagong Hill Tracts. The things that attract tourists here are the sunset, rain, morning, evening, and night, as well as the indigenous people. Additionally, visitors can purchase products made by the indigenous community from the haat (market) for their friends and family members.

Where is it located?

Sajek is a union in Baghaichari Upazila of Rangamati District and is the largest union in Bangladesh. It covers a vast area—even surpassing the size of many upazilas in the country. Situated to the northeast of Khagrachari District at an elevation of 1,800 feet above sea level, Sajek stands out for its impressive landscape. The original Sajek Valley consists of two neighborhoods- Ruilui and Kanlak. These are called para in the local language. Indigenous people from the Lushai, Pankua, and Tripura communities mainly reside here. Located only 10 km from Mizoram in India, Sajek is also renowned for its orange orchards.

Sajek is such a place where, if you are lucky, you can witness three different aspects of nature within 24 hours. At times, the weather can be extremely hot. After a little while, rain begins to fall suddenly, and soon after, a layer of fog may cover the area. At night, when the solar lights illuminate the apex of this remote mountain, they create a remarkable atmosphere. Many children gather under the streetlights to read books or engage in play.

In Sajek, there are three helipads, each with its own unique beauty. You can also walk from Ruilui to Komolong Para, a scenic area situated well above sea level. Do not forget to taste the oranges during the harvest season, as the oranges of Sajek are considered the best in Bangladesh. The Bangladesh Army has also established a small loom industry for the residents of Ruilui Para, where visitors can purchase beautifully crafted towels and lungis.

When is the best time to visit Sajek Valley?

If you want to visit Sajek Valley for tourism, winter is the best time. However, if you enjoy adventure and wish to experience the true beauty of the mountains, the rainy season is the best time to visit.

How will you go to Sajek Valley?

There are many direct buses from Dhaka to Khagrachari. You can take a bus from the Gabtoli and Saidabad bus terminals. You will find both AC and non-AC buses. The price range of tickets is between Tk 520 and 700. Prices may increase over time.

From Khagrachari, there are three ways to reach Sajek: Chander Gari, CNG, and motorcycle. The most popular way is to reserve a jeep (locally known as Chander Gari) from Khagrachari city. The rent is BDT 4,500–5,500, and one jeep can carry up to fifteen people. If you are traveling in a group, it is best to go by Chander Gari for more fun. If you plan to return before sunset, your costs will be BDT 4,000–5,000. If you decide to stay overnight, you have two options for your return trip:

1.   After reaching Sajek, release the car but keep the driver’s number and tell him to come when you call.

2.   Stay in Sajek at night, and when you return the next day, you will find many Chandar Gari going back empty after dropping off passengers. You can return to the city with one of them at a cheaper rate.

If there are few people, you can take a CNG from Khagrachari to go there. It will cost around BDT 3000.

In addition, you can reach Sajek by motorcycle. In that case, you will first need to go to Dighinala from Khagrachari city. From there, you can continue to Sajek by motorcycle. A motorcycle can accommodate three people, including the driver. You can reserve a round-trip motorcycle ride for approximately Tk 1,000–1,200. If you can bargain, the fare may be slightly reduced. Alternatively, you can take a bus from Khagrachari to Dighinala, which will cost each passenger Tk 45.

Where will you stay?

Accommodation is perhaps the main problem here, as there are very few resorts or rest houses. So, if you visit Sajek Valley during government holidays, you may not find any place to stay. There are two beautifully decorated resorts—Runmoy and Sajek—which are managed by the Bangladesh Army. 

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Runmoy Resort – This beautiful and well-furnished resort is located at the end of Ruilui Para. When you first see this two-storied rest house, it will be hard to believe that you are traveling somewhere in Bangladesh. We are used to seeing this type of house in English movies, so it may seem as though you have come to travel abroad. The resort has five rooms, and each room can accommodate a maximum of four people. Room rent on the ground floor is BDT 4,450, while on the first floor it is BDT 4,950 for civilians. Foreigners will have to spend US$100 and US$150, respectively. There are also five tents, named sequentially as Rock Tents 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. Each tent can accommodate four people, and the rent is BDT 2,850.

Sajek Resort – This round-shaped, magnificent resort is located at the center of Ruilui Para. You will be astonished by its external appearance, but its interior design will fascinate you even more. If you want to make your journey comfortable, you should book a room here. It is a little bit expensive. The resort has only four rooms, including one VIP suite. The rent of the VIP suite is BDT 15,000. The rent of another room is BDT 12,000. The other two rooms cost BDT 10,000 each per day. Foreigners will have to spend US$200–250. Booking must be done through the Giri Thebar of Khagrachari Cantonment. Here are the numbers: 01859025694, 01847070395.

Apart from these, you will also find some quality resorts managed by private owners and local tribal people. One such resort is Alo Resort, which is said to be the biggest resort. It is run by the NGO Alo. This neat and well-organized resort is located in Ruilui Para, very close to Sajek Resort. It has six rooms, including four double rooms and two single rooms. The rent for a double room is BDT 1,000, and for a single room, it is BDT 700.

Megh Machang – If you want to enjoy the beauty of the lush green hills and clouds to the fullest, you should reserve one of the cottages at Megh Machang. The resort has three separate bamboo cottages. These eco-resort-style cottages are located in Ruilui Para of Sajek Valley, Rangamati. The cost for each cottage is BDT 3,000 per day. Each cottage can accommodate 5–6 people and has an attached bathroom. Guests can enjoy the natural landscape through the windows and balconies. For reservations and more information, you can contact this number: 01822-168877.

Emmanuel resort- This standard resort is suitable for individuals who wish to stay with friends or for those who do not mind sharing accommodations. However, it is not the best choice for families. It has eight rooms and a shared bathroom. The room with a rent of BDT 1,500 has two double beds, and the room with a rent of BDT 700 has two single beds. For further information and reservations, contact: 01865349130, 01869490868 (bKash).

Sara Resort- It is another resort located in Ruilui Para. It has four rooms, three with attached bathrooms and one with a common bathroom. The rent for each room is BDT 1,000. If you book all four rooms, it will cost BDT 3,600. Each room has one bed, which can accommodate two people. The rooms are a bit small in size. This rest house is made of tin and has a solar system. Contact number: 01554534507.

Ruilui Para club house- This semi-concrete house was built by the army as a club for people living in this vicinity. If there are many tourists and alternative accommodations are not available, this location can serve as your lodging. It has the capacity to host around 15 people. Each person will have to spend BDT 150–200. Bedding will be provided by the caretaker. Guests have the option to prepare their own meals or ask the caretaker to do so, which will not cost more than BDT 200. This accommodation is ideal for students or those seeking economical lodging. There are two toilets: one can be used for free, and for the other, you will have to pay BDT 200. Contact numbers: 01838497612, 01860103402.

You can even stay in tribal houses located in Kanlak Para, which may cost around BDT 600–1,000, including food. To make your journey more memorable, you may consider camping near Sajek. Several camping sites are available in Ruilui Para. It is advisable to inform the security forces before camping. Prior to traveling, ensure there is an available room in the resorts, and it is recommended to reserve the room by phone before your departure.

Where will you eat?

If travelers stay at Sajek Resort, Runmoy Resort, tents, or Alo Resort, their meals will be arranged by the respective resorts. If you stay in the club house, food can be managed by the caretaker. Those who go camping or stay in tents outside can eat at Maruti Hotel, System Restaurant, or other nearby hotels run by tribal people. You should place your food order at least two hours in advance. Each meal will cost approximately Tk 150–200. If you order from the army-run canteen, they will cook your food, but the price is comparatively higher.

You can contact the resort in advance to arrange food. If there are only a few people, they can go directly to the restaurant and order food. If you order just rice and vegetables, the person in charge of the resort can arrange it. It is better to buy fish or meat from Machalong Haat. Staying at least one night in Sajek is recommended.

What are the nearby tourist spots?

Hajachara and Taiduchara waterfalls, Ruilui Para Church, The Horizon Garden, and Chengi Golf House are some beautiful places you can visit if you have enough time.

Some important tips:

While going to Sajek Valley, do not forget to take a power bank. It will help you keep your mobile switched on. As there is limited electricity, you cannot charge your mobile in most resorts. Mobile network is also a big issue. Only a few telecommunication companies, such as Robi and Grameen, have coverage here. So, you can buy a SIM from any of these companies to stay connected with your friends and family. There is a scarcity of drinking water, so it is better to carry bottles of mineral water from the nearby bazaar. Bring chocolates for tribal children, as they greet tourists with the hope of receiving candy. If they do not get any, they may feel disheartened. Mosquito-borne diseases are very common in hilly areas, so take precautionary measures to protect yourself from these illnesses.