A short history of Asad Gate

If you are a Dhaka city dweller, specifically residing in Mohammadpur or adjacent areas, you might have walked past Asad Gate. You might have been curious to know who this Asad really was. What was his identity? However, in the poet’s poetry, Asad lives on with a different kind of radiance. The most famous poem about martyr Asad was written by Shamsur Rahman, one of the leading poets of modern Bengali literature. He wrote, “Like clusters of red oleanders or the glowing clouds of sunset, Asad’s shirt is flying in the breeze across the blue sky.” It is not just poems that have been written about Asad; the people of his village have also composed many folk songs and Jari songs in his honor, which are still sung locally today. 

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Martyr Asad stands out as one of the heroes of the mass uprising of 1969 in Bangladesh. Martyr Asad, known as Amanullah Mohammad Asaduzzaman, was a student as well as a student leader at the University of Dhaka at that time. He was born on June 10, 1942, in Hatirdia of Dhamua village under Shibpur Upazila of Narsingdi. On January 20, 1969, Asad’s life took a tragic turn when, during a strike held as part of the historic 11-Point Movement against the tyrannical Ayub government, he became the first martyr after being shot by the police in front of Dhaka Medical College. At that time, he was a leader of the then East Pakistan Students’ Union (Menon Group) and the President of the Shahidullah Hall branch of the University of Dhaka. His death sparked a wave of anger among students and the general public, further intensifying the movement. The very next day, Dhaka witnessed the largest mourning procession in its history, as people carried the bloodstained shirt of martyr Asad through the streets. 

The provincial capital, Dhaka, turned into a city of protests. The agitated crowd at that time rushed to the then Ayub Gate, erected in Mohammadpur, and, as a symbol of their furious protest, smashed the nameplate of Ayub Gate and wrote “Asad Gate” there using Asad’s own blood. This act marked the birth of Asad Gate in Mohammadpur as a symbol of heroism. To preserve the memory of Martyr Asad, people did not stop at renaming Ayub Gate; they also changed the name of “Ayubnagar,” then considered the second capital of Pakistan, to “Asadnagar” (now known as Sher-e-Bangla Nagar). 

During this time, poet Shamsur Rahman was moved by the sight of a long procession carrying Asad’s shirt and wrote his famous poem “Asad’s Shirt.” This poem went on to spread far and wide. History tells us that in 1960, Pakistan’s then-President Ayub Khan came to Dhaka and allocated the first 15 houses in the Mohammadpur Housing Estate area to several families. It was during this visit that the archway was built as the main entrance to the residential area and was named “Ayub Gate” after him. 

Martyr Asad was a man of great vision. Not only did he lead as a student, but he was also actively involved in the farmers’ movement. His diary tells us that back in 1968, he established a night school in Shibpur, Narsingdi, for poor and working-class people and dreamed of building a society free from exploitation. 

He dreamed not only of pursuing a career in politics but also of joining the legal profession to provide legal assistance to ordinary people. With this ambition, he enrolled at City Law College. Moreover, as a teacher, he aspired to make a meaningful impact on people’s lives. Today, in his honor, the Govt. Shahid Asad College has been established in Shibpur, making a significant contribution to promoting education in the area. 

Asad’s father, Maulana Mohammad Abu Taher, served as an officer in the BCS (General Education) Cadre and was the headmaster of Shibpur High School. His brothers were highly educated and supported Asad’s political ideals. 

It is known that Asad’s ancestral home in Narsingdi is still standing strong. His family is making every effort to carefully preserve many of the personal belongings and memorabilia associated with him. He was buried in a family graveyard located right next to the house. 

In recognition of his extraordinary sacrifice, the Government of Bangladesh posthumously awarded him the Independence Award in 2018. 

A brief one-line about martyr Asad is inscribed on the memorial plaque: “Shaheed Asad was killed by police gunfire during the Mass uprising of 1969.” Apart from this, there is no further information written. 

It is worth mentioning that the Asad Gate arch was built with funding from the Dhaka District Council. However, the City Corporation is now responsible for its maintenance. 

Ayub Gate:

When Ayub Khan, the military administrator of East Pakistan, came to power, the then-Governor Abdul Monem Khan built an archway at the intersection of Mirpur Road and Lalmatia. This was to celebrate the handover of the first 15 plots in the Mohammadpur residential area to their owners. This archway was named “Ayub Gate.” At that time, various establishments across East Pakistan were named after Ayub Khan to please him. 

Shaheed Asad:

Among the three people who lost their lives during the Mass Movement of 1969, Martyr Asad was the first to be martyred. The other two were Martyr Rustam and school student Martyr Matiur. On January 4, 1969, students at the University of Dhaka expressed their solidarity with the students’ 11-point program and Bangabandhu’s Six-Point Movement. On January 17, student leaders from the University of Dhaka called for a strike at all educational institutions across the country. At that time, Martyr Asad was a student leader of the Menon Group at the university. In response, Governor Abdul Monem Khan imposed Section 144 in an attempt to suppress the student movement. On January 20, Shaheed Asad led a protest procession of more than ten thousand students through the Chankharpul area beside Dhaka Medical College. When the police tried to stop them, the students sat down on the road and continued chanting slogans. 

Despite the police obstruction, Shaheed Asad was determined to move forward with the procession. Out of nowhere, a police officer shot him from very close range, causing him to fall to the ground. The people around him quickly carried him to Dhaka Medical College, where he was declared dead. Asad’s tragic death intensified the movement. His blood-stained shirt became a powerful symbol of the movement. Across the country, students and members of the general public began changing the names of almost all the gates and establishments named after the autocratic ruler Ayub Khan in honor of Shaheed Asad. Ayub Gate became Asad Gate, which stands today as a testament to his legacy. 

Following the death of Shaheed Asad, on January 24, an overwhelming wave of people from all walks of life surged onto the streets of Dhaka and across Bangladesh in support of the Six-Point and Eleven-Point demands. Ayub Khan’s regime eventually fell. This marked the Mass Uprising of 1969. 

At the time of his death, Martyr Asad was a final-year postgraduate student in the Department of History at the University of Dhaka. 

Nilgiri Hill: A place where you can touch the clouds

If you want to experience the horizon of green hills and a vast panorama, where clusters of clouds drift around the hills, you can visit Nilgiri Hill. For its picturesque landscape surrounded by hills and lush green environment, it is known among travel enthusiasts as the Darjeeling of Bangladesh. The green hills and the clouds playing hide-and-seek across the horizon will fascinate anyone with their beauty. If you have the desire to touch the clouds, Nilgiri will fulfill that wish. It is a 2,200-foot-high hill located approximately 50 kilometers from the Bandarban district headquarters. You can reach Nilgiri by taking the mountainous road from Alikadam in Bandarban, along the Thanchi-bound road. 

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Atop Nilgiri Hill is situated one of the most beautiful tourist destinations in Bangladesh, Nilgiri Tourist Center, which was established and is managed by the Bangladesh Army. Due to its high altitude, this tourist center is almost always covered in clouds, which is a unique attraction. Since the beginning of the twenty-first century, it has gradually become known as a tourist destination among people across the country.

If you look around from Nilgiri Hill, you will be fascinated by the sight of clouds drifting across the mountain ranges and the endless beauty of nature. From the top of Nilgiri Hill, along with rows of hills, you can see Boga Lake, Bangladesh’s fifth-highest mountain peak, Keokradong, the Cox’s Bazar Sea beach, Chittagong Port, and the Sangu River. Additionally, from the tribal village near the Nilgiri, you can become acquainted with their culture and traditions. Since there is an army camp on Nilgiri Hill, there is no reason to be concerned about security. Therefore, you can easily visit Nilgiri Hill with your family. 

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When will you go there?

The Nilgiri Hills display their beauty throughout the year. It takes on a different appearance at different times. The play of clouds in the morning, the light of sunrise, the sunset in the afternoon, and the enchanting surroundings of a starry night will undoubtedly leave you spellbound. Usually, during the monsoon, early autumn, and late autumn, you can beautifully witness the clouds playing hide-and-seek. To experience this, you will have to go to Nilgiri Hill very early in the morning. The clouds of early and late autumn blend with the blue sky, and the surroundings are shrouded in a blanket of fog—it is a scene worth seeing. After the rain, the Bay of Bengal also becomes visible from the peak. That is why you can visit Nilgiri Hill at any time. However, during the monsoon season, heavy rainfall increases the risk of landslides, and at such times, the road to Nilgiri Hill often remains closed.

How to get to Nilgiri Hill?

No matter which part of the country you live in, you will first have to come to Bandarban to go to Nilgiri Hill. From various places in Dhaka, buses operated by S. Alam Paribahan, Saudia Coach Service, Saintmartin Paribahan, Unique Paribahan, Hanif Enterprise, Shyamoli Paribahan, and Dolphin Paribahan leave for Bandarban. The fare per person on these buses is approximately BDT 550 for non-AC and BDT 950–1500 for AC services.

If you want to travel by train, you will need to take a Chattogram-bound train, such as the Sonar Bangla Express, Subarna Express, Turna Nishitha, or Mahanagar Godhuli, from Dhaka to Chattogram. Depending on the class, the fare ranges from BDT 350 to 1,200. Additionally, you can travel directly from Dhaka to Chattogram by air.

From Bahaddarhat in Chattogram, two buses, Pubali Paribahan and Purbani Paribahan, depart for Bandarban. The fare for these buses is approximately BDT 220 per person. From Dampara Bus Stand in Chattogram, you can also travel to Bandarban by bus, with fares ranging from BDT 200 to 300 per person. 

From Bandarban to Nilgiri Hill:

From Bandarban, you can go to Nilgiri Hill by taking a jeep (locally known as a Chander Gari), a CNG auto-rickshaw, or a local bus. It is best to go there with a reserved vehicle, as this will allow you to visit and explore a few nearby places as well. If you want to go and return before sunset, you will need to hire a vehicle from the jeep station in Bandarban, with round-trip fares ranging from BDT 3,000 to 5,000, depending on the type of vehicle. A Chander Gari can accommodate around 12–14 passengers, Land Cruiser-type jeeps can carry 7–8 passengers, smaller jeeps can take 4–5 people, and a CNG auto-rickshaw can carry 3–4 people. If there are no problems on the road, it will take about two to two and a half hours to reach Nilgiri Hill. To see the clouds at Nilgiri Hill, you will need to start very early so that you can arrive by 7–8 a.m.

If the number of members is small or if you want to travel at a lower cost, you can go by local bus; however, it will take more time. From Thanchi Bus Stand, buses depart for Thanchi every hour, and the fare is BDT 120. However, if you prefer, you can join another group going to Nilgiri Hill and share the fare.

On the way to Nilgiri Hill, tourists are required to record their names and addresses at the army checkpoint for security reasons. Usually, no vehicles are allowed to travel to Nilgiri Hill after 5 p.m., so keep an eye on the time before traveling. To visit the Nilgiri Tourist Center, visitors are required to pay an entrance fee of BDT 50 per person, in addition to a separate parking fee of BDT 300 per vehicle. 

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Where will you stay?

The army manages several cottages at Nilgiri Hill Resort for visitors. These cottages are Akashlina, Marma Reesa, Nilangana, Tehkho Reesa, Meghdut, and Rongdhonu. The rent for each room ranges from BDT 4,000 to 10,000 per night. However, if you wish to stay at the Nilgiri Hill Resort, you will need to book in advance, and a reference from a known army officer at the officer level is required to confirm the booking. Since the resort is highly attractive to visitors, rooms are usually unavailable unless a reservation is made at least a month in advance, especially during holidays. To book a room, you can call this number: +8801769299999 or +8801769245500.

Apart from these cottages, there are also three tents available, each equipped with four beds. Tourists who wish to stay here will have to pay BDT 2,500 per night. For accommodating an additional person in a cottage, tourists will have to pay an extra charge of BDT 500 per person. However, members of the Bangladesh defense force, including the Army, Navy, and Air Force, will receive a discount on the cottage rental.

Since the Nilgiri Hill Resort is managed by the Bandarban Officers’ Club, which is affiliated with the Bangladesh Army, it is mandatory for visitors to reserve a cottage at the resort through a serving first-class military officer from Bangladesh. To make a reservation, you will need to contact the 69th Infantry Brigade, whose headquarters are in Bandarban Cantonment. Visitors must follow certain procedures to successfully reserve a cottage. For further details regarding the reservation process, contact information, and online reservations, please visit the official website: https://nilgiriresortbd.com.

Besides, most tourists visit Nilgiri Hill from Bandarban during the day and return before sunset. There are several hotels, resorts, and cottages available for staying in Bandarban. These hotels and resorts are located in Bandarban and its surrounding areas. Among the hotels and resorts available for accommodation in Bandarban are: 

• Hotel Hill View: It is located beside the bus stand in Bandarban city. The rent for each room ranges from BDT 800 to BDT 2,500.
• Hotel Hilton: It is located close to the bus stand in Bandarban city. The rent per room ranges from BDT 800 to BDT 3,000.  
• Hotel Plaza: It takes five minutes to reach the hotel on foot from the bus stand. The rent for each room ranges from BDT 600 to 3,000.
• River View: This hotel is located along the bank of the Sangu River in the town. The rent ranges from BDT 600 to 2,000.
• Parjatan Motel: It is located beside the mountains and a lake. It is situated in Meghalay, about four kilometers from the town.

The rent for hotels, resorts, vehicles, and other expenses changes over time. Therefore, the information published in this travel guide may not match the current situation. Kindly check the latest information and plan accordingly before traveling. For your convenience, mobile numbers for hotels, resorts, vehicles, and other contacts are provided here from various sources. It is recommended to verify these numbers before making any financial transactions. This travel guide will not be responsible for any financial loss or other problems.

Travel planning:

On the way to Nilgiri Hill, you will pass by Milanchari Viewpoint, Shoilo Propat Waterfall, Sairu Hill Resort, and Chimbuk Hill Tourist Center. If you take a reserved vehicle, you can stop at these spots and spend some time there. When hiring the vehicle, inform the driver in advance. However, it is best to go directly to Nilgiri Hill in the morning to see the clouds. On your way back, you can spend some time at Chimbuk Hill and then at Shoilo Propat Waterfall. On the way, you will have to stop at the checkpoint at Milanchari Viewpoint, where from you can see the beautiful surroundings. You can also do it the other way around. If you plan to spend the afternoon at Nilgiri, you can stop at the Shoilo Propat Waterfall and the Chimbuk Hill Tourist Center on the way, spend some time there, and then proceed to Nilgiri.

Where will you eat?

There is a restaurant in Nilgiri Hill where you can eat if you feel hungry. However, if you want to dine there, you will have to order in advance. You can eat there for BDT 150–500 per person. Besides, there are some small restaurants in front of Chimbuk Mountain where you can eat. If there are many people, you will have to order in advance.

Or, you can return and have a meal in Bandarban town. Since there are only a few places to eat there, you can carry some dry food with you. In Bandarban town, there are many restaurants where you can eat, including Tazing Dong Café, Meghdut Café, Food Place Restaurant, Rupshi Bangla Restaurant, Ree Song Song, Kalapathar Restaurant, and others.

Places to visit around Nilgiris:

In addition to visiting Nilgiri Hill, there are several other tourist spots nearby. If you plan well in advance, you can visit these places along with Nilgiri Hill. These include:

·       Chimbuk Hill

·       Shoilo Propat Waterfall

·       Meghla Tourist Center

·       Nilachal

·       Double Hand View Point

·       Titanic View Point

·       Neel Digante View Point

·       Golden Temple

·       Boga Lake

·       Thanchi

·       Toma Tungi

·       Tindu

·       Remakri 

Nilgiri Hill travel tips:

Ø  To arrange a vehicle, you should talk directly to the jeep stand. If required, you can negotiate the price.

Ø  You can buy items made by indigenous people at lower prices in Shoilo Propat or Chimbuk.

Ø  The entire route from Bandarban to Nilgiri is a hilly and winding road. So, be careful while traveling.

Ø  Do not ride on the roof of a Chander Gari.

Ø  Be careful when descending to the Shoilo Propat waterfall, as the rocky path is very slippery.

Ø  Please do not do anything that may disrespect the indigenous people.

Ø  If possible, stay one night in Nilgiri. It will be a memory to cherish for a lifetime.

Ø  Do not take any unnecessary risk.

Ø  Always keep a copy of your national identity card with you.

Ø  If you want to travel to Nilgiri at a lower cost, you can go in a group. 

Uttara Gonobhaban: A Palace of Maharajas

Uttara Gonobhaban is perhaps the least visited tourist destination in Bangladesh. However, its rich historical background, popular heritage, and beautiful surroundings have made it a favorite destination for vacationers to plan their holiday trip. From the late seventeenth century until the mid-twentieth century, it served as the residence for seven generations of kings. The picturesque narrative of this site makes it one of the most sought-after tourist attractions, where visitors can spend quality time with their family and friends. It is commonly known as the Dighapatia Rajbari. 

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History:

Dighapatia Rajbari is commonly referred to as Uttara Gonobhaban in Natore, North Bengal. This nearly three-hundred-year-old palace was first built by Raja Dayaram Roy, the founder of the Dighapatia dynasty. However, at the beginning of his life, he served as the dewan for Raja Ramjivan Roy, the first Raja of the Natore Raj family. In 1716, he led the army of Ramjivan Roy and, with the help of the Nawab of Bengal, successfully defeated the rebellious Raja Sitaram Ray, a zamindar (landlord) of the neighboring Bhusna state. Because of his loyalty, diligence, and efficiency, Ramjivan rewarded him with a substantial amount of land in the Rajshahi, Bogra, and Jessore districts. Utilizing these land grants, he established the Dighapatia estate in 1734. 

In 1897, the Uttara Gonobhaban was reduced to ruins after being hit by a devastating earthquake that lasted almost 18 minutes. Pramada Nath Roy, the sixth king of the dynasty, then restored and reconstructed the Rajbari of Dayarampur, a process that spanned 11 years from 1897 to 1908, with the help of foreign experts, engineers, artists, and local craftsmen. 

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The last king of the Uttara Gonobhaban Palace, Protiva Nath Roy, left for Kolkata following the partition of 1947 and the abolition of the zamindari system under the East Bengal State Acquisition and Tenancy Act of 1950, a law passed by the newly formed democratic government of East Bengal in the Dominion of Pakistan.

On July 24, 1967, Abdul Monem Khan, then Governor of East Pakistan, declared it to be the official residence of the governor. On February 9, 1972, after the independence of Bangladesh, Prime Minister Sheikh Mujibur Rahman, the Father of the Nation, declared it Uttara Gonobhaban, an official residence of the Prime Minister in northern Bangladesh.

Opens to visitors:

Prior to its public opening, the palace served as the official residence of the Prime Minister of Bangladesh. The current administration has since decided to open it to the public. On October 25, 2012, State Minister for Youth and Sports, Ahad Ali Sarkar, inaugurated Uttara Gonobhaban for visitors. It is now open daily from 11:00 am to 4:00 pm. Guests must purchase tickets priced between Tk 10 and Tk 20, allowing 30 minutes inside the palace compound. For security, local authorities have installed CCTV cameras and a metal detector.

Main attractions:

The entire Uttara Gonobhaban Palace is a testament to architectural excellence. Many visitors from across the world come to this historical site to admire its beautiful structural design. Upon arrival, visitors are bound to be amazed by its serene atmosphere and the chirping of various bird species. The ancient palatial houses and other installations, which indicate the dominance of past rulers, arouse joy and a sense of nostalgia for long-gone days. Without a doubt, many beautiful features of the site will inspire visitors to return for a second visit. 

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Arched entrance gateway:

The first thing that draws visitors’ attention is its arched entrance doorway, positioned at the center of the eastern outer wall. This three-story pyramidal gateway features equally shaped rooms connected internally on both sides. On each side of the entrance path, there are coiled wooden staircases that provide access to the first and second floors. At the top of the structure, there is a large clock accompanied by two circlets. This clock resembles a replica of ‘Big Ben’ in the UK. It is said that King Dayaram imported this clock from England. Beside the clock, there is a large bell. In the past, the sound of the bell could be heard from far away. The chauchala structure atop the gate gives it a pyramidal look. The exterior of the front gate, which extends over a hundred feet, has been painted red.

Main palace building:

The entrance gateway, adorned with greenery and gardens, guides visitors to the main palace building. This single-story building has nine bedrooms, a conference room, a reception hall, a dining room, and a dance room. The reception hall stands out from the other rooms because on top of it is a large dome built in 1967. The entire dome is decorated with a star design. Aside from this feature, the roof of the palace is flat and constructed with iron beams to support the weight of the roof. Notably, the steps of the veranda and the floors of the rooms are made of white and black geometric shaped marble stones. Perhaps the most aesthetically pleasing arrangement is the flower garden with a water fountain situated in front of the southern veranda of the main palace. There are four vessel motifs on both sides of the fountain, with two on each side. On the four corners of the garden, there are four marble statues of women that imitate ancient Greek architecture. The height from the ceiling to the floor of the reception hall is more than 25 feet, making it much taller than the adjacent rooms. A painted floral motif decorates the ceiling, enhancing the beauty of the palace. Additionally, there is a single-story ‘Rani Mahal’ (Queen’s Palace) located to the south of the main palace block.

Kumar Palace:

The literal meaning of the word ‘Kumar’ is ‘Prince.’ The Kumar Palace, also known as the Yellow Building, is a two-story structure located to the southeast. It stands between the entrance gateway and the main palace compound. The ground floor contains several rooms. These were apparently used as storerooms. The first floor consists of five rooms, including four main bedrooms and a dressing room. A notable aspect of its construction is the use of mosaic on the floors of the rooms and verandas. The central hall is an exception. For safety and durability, the roof is enclosed by a parapet wall. Another distinctive feature is the floral design on a broad frieze. It runs below the cornice of the outer walls on the north, west, and south sides.

Khazanchi Khana:

The term refers to the Treasury Lobby, which is positioned directly behind the Kumar Palace. Specifically, this single-story structure stands between the Main Palace and the Kumar Palace. The building is arranged around an open courtyard and features twenty-six rooms distributed along its sides. On the north façade, a corridor stretches from east to west, fronted by a veranda with an arcade of five pointed arches. Additional verandas are located on the east, west, and north sides of the central courtyard, giving the building both functionality and symmetry.

Italian Garden:

The most remarkable feature of this palace is the Italian Garden. King Dayaram imported much of its furniture from Italy, which is why it is known by this name. Within the garden, visitors can see five marble statues, a fountain, and a sitting bench. Interestingly, the benches were brought from Kolkata, and the word “Kolkata” is still inscribed on their surface. Among the statues, one titled “The Daughter of the Mountain” has a broken hand. According to local accounts, looting occurred during the Liberation War of 1971. The statue’s wrist, once adorned with gold, was broken by Pakistani soldiers who stole the ornament.

Temples:

So far, you have read vivid descriptions of palaces and monuments. Building upon these, a large Mandir Bari (temple complex) of the Dighapatia Raj lies about half a kilometer southeast of the Rajbari. This complex includes four temples: Durga Mandir, Kali Mandir, Radha-Krishna Mandir, and Dhulan Mandir. The architectural design of these temples differs from that of the more ancient ones. Their flat-roofed architecture suggests they are less than 100 years old. The complex is also widely known as the Dighapatia Raj Debottar Estate. 

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Sculptures:

Although the palace grounds were ravaged several times throughout history, some exquisite remnants still exist, such as neo-classical bronze Greek sculptures, flower pots, chandeliers, engraved wooden bedsteads, princely furniture, and light fixtures. There are also two armored knights in the main entrance hall. 

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Location:

The Uttara Gonobhaban is three kilometres away from Natore town in North Bengal under the Rajshahi division. It is located to the east of the Natore-Bogra highway. The approximate distance from Dhaka via the Rajshahi highway is 205.8 kilometers. It may take 4–5 hours to reach the spot.

Transportation:

Direct bus service is available from different points in Dhaka. Locations from where you can get a direct bus to Natore are Kallyanpur (Mirpur Road), Panthapath (Kalabagan), Gabtoli (Mirpur), and Abdullahpur (Uttara).
It is also possible to go there by train. All you have to do is get on the Dhumketu Express train from Kamalapur Railway Station and get down at Rajshahi or Natore.

List of hotels, boarding and rest houses:

In Natore, there are a number of affordable hotels, boarding houses, and rest houses where you can stay. Some of the famous hotels, guest houses, and boarding houses are Hotel VIP (Borohorishpur), Hotel Millat (Madrasha More), Hotel Rukhsana (Kanaikhali, Old Bus Stand), Natore Boarding (Nichabazar, Hospital Road), Hotel Prince (Railway Station Bazar), Hotel Raj (Madrasha More), Natore Sugar Mills Guest House (Natore Sugar Mills area), and Hotel Nice International (Shaheb Bazar). 

Ratargul Swamp Forest: The Amazon of Bangladesh

It is an enormous forest where rows of trees stand in a wetland. Their trunks are submerged in water. This woodland is so dense that even the scorching sunlight cannot penetrate the leaves to reach the water below. That is why a large portion of this forest remains greenish in color. When you look around, all you see are water and trees. The highland is beyond your sight. It may give you the impression that you are trapped in a submerged forest. This is not the end. There is danger everywhere. While exploring this jungle, visitors may come across snakes hissing from nearby trees and anonymous birds flying overhead. Apart from the sound of water droplets and the rustling of the wind, no other noise will reach your ears. Birds such as eagles and vultures perch atop the trees, waiting for their prey. Upon reading such a description, the first thought that may come to your mind is the Amazon forest. However, you will be astonished to know that this narrative is about Ratargul Swamp Forest. It bears a striking resemblance to the Amazon. Because of this similarity, it is often referred to as the Amazon of Bangladesh. 

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In the local language of Sylhet, the Murta plant, the raw material of which is used for making Shitalpati, is known as “Ratagach.” This forest is named Ratargul after this Murta, or Ratagach, tree.

Brief history:

It is essential to have basic information about Ratargul Swamp Forest before planning your visit. It is the only recognized swamp forest in Bangladesh. Moreover, it is one of the twenty-two freshwater swamp forests globally, which attracts visitors from both within the country and abroad. In the Indian subcontinent, there are only two of them—one is located in Sri Lanka, and the other is in our nation. The water in this forest is as clear as crystal. You can not only see the reflections of the trees in the water, which makes the water appear green, but you can also see the bottom layer. The Government of Bangladesh has taken measures to preserve this forest under the Department of Forestry.

As the season changes, the beauty of this forest changes too. For this reason, it looks different in different seasons. The diversity of its natural environment draws the attention of tourists throughout the year. However, the best time to visit Ratargul is during and after the rainy season.

Ratargul Swamp Forest is connected to the Gowain River via a lake named Chengir Khal. During the rainy season, water coming from the hills of India flows into the lake through the river and submerges the entire forest. This state of weather remains the same from May to early October, and the temperature stays around 32 degrees Celsius. It drops to 12 degrees Celsius in January. During the monsoon season, the depth of water ranges from 20 to 30 feet, while the water level decreases to 10 feet throughout the rest of the year.

However, during the winter season, we can see a completely different scenario. The forest becomes dry at this time, and only the water reservoirs excavated inside the forest retain water. This area transforms into a sanctuary for migratory birds.

If you visit Ratargul Swamp Forest, you can try kayaking. The thrill you experience while navigating a kayak is distinctly different from traveling by boat. With a kayak, you can enter any part of the forest and stop whenever you wish, something a boat cannot offer. Once inside the forest, take a moment to sit silently in the kayak, where sunlight cannot penetrate due to the dense trees. All around, even in broad daylight, you can hear the chirping of crickets, the murmur of the stream, the sudden flapping of birds’ wings, and see huge trees rooted in the water, along with the panoramic views from the watchtower. Above all, you are bound to be impressed.

Location:

To visit this marshland forest, travelers will have to go to Gowainghat Upazila of Sylhet Division. This unique swamp forest is located approximately 26 kilometers from Sylhet city. The total area of the forest spans 30,325 acres, of which 504 acres were declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1973.

How will you go there?

If you reside in Dhaka or any other division of Bangladesh, you must travel to Sylhet first. From Sylhet, your next destination will be Ratargul. There are two primary routes to get there. The choice of which route to take is entirely yours.

Firstly, let us discuss the easiest route to reach Ratargul Swamp Forest. To do this, you need to hire an autorickshaw from Ambarkhana Point in Sylhet city. The journey may take approximately one and a half hours to reach Motorghat. From there, you can rent either an engine-driven boat or a regular boat, which will probably cost Tk 300–400 per person. After your visit, you will return to Sylhet using the same route.

The second option is expensive as well as time-consuming. If you intend to visit Jafflong at the same time on the same route, you can proceed with this plan. This journey also requires the use of two boats to navigate through the forest. You may opt for an autorickshaw from Ambarkhana Point in Sylhet city or take a bus bound for Jafflong from Sobhanighat as your mode of transportation. Whatever transport you choose, you have to travel to Gowainghat Upazila, which is approximately a two-and-a-half-hour journey. After reaching there, you have to hire an engine-run boat for a round trip on a contract basis. It may cost around Tk 1,500. Boarding this boat, you will have to go to the Forest Bit Office of Ratargul. There, you have to shift to smaller boats to enter the forest.

If you are visiting for the first time, it is better to hire a guide. A guide may charge BDT 150 per hour.  

Flora and Fauna:

The presence of different species of plants and animals has significantly enhanced the appeal of this forest. To date, it is home to 73 species of plants, which cover 80 percent of the forest with their upper parts, commonly referred to as the umbrella of the trees. While exploring the forest, visitors will often see Banyan trees. Apart from these, one can see Millettia pinnata (Koroch tree), Barringtonia acutangula (Hizal tree), Sacred Garlic Pear or Temple Plant, and Alstonia scholaris (Chatim tree). Although it is a natural forest, the Forestry Department of Bangladesh has planted several aquatic plants, including Calamus tenuis, Burflower Tree, Schumannianthus dichotomus, etc.

After exploring Ratargul Swamp Forest, you may feel tempted to swim in the water. However, do not attempt to do so because this submerged area is inhabited by numerous venomous and dangerous animals, most of which live underwater. Snakes and worm snakes are frequently seen in this waterlogged forest. In the dry season, mongooses can be spotted. Additionally, this area is inhabited by monkeys, water monitors, insects, and various bird species, including Heron, Egret, Kingfisher, Parrot, Bulbul, Swan, Dove, Waterfowl, Eagle, and Kite. The best time to watch Cotton Pygmy Geese, migratory birds, and the nearly extinct Vulture is during the winter season. It is also a source of several local fish species, including Batasio, Rita, Pabda, and Rohu.

Precautions:

This submerged forest is not a safe destination for tourists who lack swimming skills. Boats may capsize and cause the death of visitors. To prevent drowning due to a boat accident, you should wear a life jacket. During the rainy season, when the water level rises, venomous snakes take shelter in the trees. If you visit the place at this time, avoid touching the trees or water carelessly. For added safety, you can also carry carbolic acid.

Food and accommodation facilities:

There is no good restaurant close to Ratargul Swamp Forest. Therefore, visitors are advised to collect any food items they need from Gowainghat Bazaar. In Sylhet city, there are several high-quality hotels. You can choose any of the hotels according to your needs and budget. It is heard that the Department of Forest is building a rest house for tourists. It will undoubtedly help provide accommodation for them.

In the end, I would like to request everyone to refrain from polluting the forest by littering empty bottles, packets of chips, and biscuit packets here and there. We must remember that this is our valuable resource, so it is our responsibility to keep it neat and clean. 

Sajek Valley: The Land of Clouds

Sajek Valley is perhaps one of the most sought-after tourist destinations for travel lovers. Its stunning natural beauty has earned it the name the queen of the hills. This is not an exaggeration. If we conduct a survey to determine the most beautiful locations in Bangladesh, this undulating area will undoubtedly secure the top position. Because of its lush greenery, pleasant weather, and tranquil atmosphere, it is often referred to as the paradise of Bangladesh. It is also known as the roof of Rangamati. 

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Explorers call Sajek Valley the land of clouds. A team of clouds plays here, surrounded by picturesque mountains and dense forests. Walking through the clouds and feeling them with your hands will make anyone excited. Traveling to Sajek through the kingdom of clouds along the zigzag, up-and-down hilly roads, which resemble giant snake spirals, is truly something great.

The panoramic view of the countryside from the top of the mountain and the waves of clouds will fascinate visitors. It is an all-weather tourist spot where tourists can experience different types of weather in a single day. In the morning, the surrounding area is covered with thick clouds, which prevent one from seeing the bottom while standing on top of the mountain. 

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Sajek derives its name from a river that flows into the Karnafuli River in the Chittagong Hill Tracts. The things that attract tourists here are the sunset, rain, morning, evening, and night, as well as the indigenous people. Additionally, visitors can purchase products made by the indigenous community from the haat (market) for their friends and family members.

Where is it located?

Sajek is a union in Baghaichari Upazila of Rangamati District and is the largest union in Bangladesh. It covers a vast area—even surpassing the size of many upazilas in the country. Situated to the northeast of Khagrachari District at an elevation of 1,800 feet above sea level, Sajek stands out for its impressive landscape. The original Sajek Valley consists of two neighborhoods- Ruilui and Kanlak. These are called para in the local language. Indigenous people from the Lushai, Pankua, and Tripura communities mainly reside here. Located only 10 km from Mizoram in India, Sajek is also renowned for its orange orchards.

Sajek is such a place where, if you are lucky, you can witness three different aspects of nature within 24 hours. At times, the weather can be extremely hot. After a little while, rain begins to fall suddenly, and soon after, a layer of fog may cover the area. At night, when the solar lights illuminate the apex of this remote mountain, they create a remarkable atmosphere. Many children gather under the streetlights to read books or engage in play.

In Sajek, there are three helipads, each with its own unique beauty. You can also walk from Ruilui to Komolong Para, a scenic area situated well above sea level. Do not forget to taste the oranges during the harvest season, as the oranges of Sajek are considered the best in Bangladesh. The Bangladesh Army has also established a small loom industry for the residents of Ruilui Para, where visitors can purchase beautifully crafted towels and lungis.

When is the best time to visit Sajek Valley?

If you want to visit Sajek Valley for tourism, winter is the best time. However, if you enjoy adventure and wish to experience the true beauty of the mountains, the rainy season is the best time to visit.

How will you go to Sajek Valley?

There are many direct buses from Dhaka to Khagrachari. You can take a bus from the Gabtoli and Saidabad bus terminals. You will find both AC and non-AC buses. The price range of tickets is between Tk 520 and 700. Prices may increase over time.

From Khagrachari, there are three ways to reach Sajek: Chander Gari, CNG, and motorcycle. The most popular way is to reserve a jeep (locally known as Chander Gari) from Khagrachari city. The rent is BDT 4,500–5,500, and one jeep can carry up to fifteen people. If you are traveling in a group, it is best to go by Chander Gari for more fun. If you plan to return before sunset, your costs will be BDT 4,000–5,000. If you decide to stay overnight, you have two options for your return trip:

1.   After reaching Sajek, release the car but keep the driver’s number and tell him to come when you call.

2.   Stay in Sajek at night, and when you return the next day, you will find many Chandar Gari going back empty after dropping off passengers. You can return to the city with one of them at a cheaper rate.

If there are few people, you can take a CNG from Khagrachari to go there. It will cost around BDT 3000.

In addition, you can reach Sajek by motorcycle. In that case, you will first need to go to Dighinala from Khagrachari city. From there, you can continue to Sajek by motorcycle. A motorcycle can accommodate three people, including the driver. You can reserve a round-trip motorcycle ride for approximately Tk 1,000–1,200. If you can bargain, the fare may be slightly reduced. Alternatively, you can take a bus from Khagrachari to Dighinala, which will cost each passenger Tk 45.

Where will you stay?

Accommodation is perhaps the main problem here, as there are very few resorts or rest houses. So, if you visit Sajek Valley during government holidays, you may not find any place to stay. There are two beautifully decorated resorts—Runmoy and Sajek—which are managed by the Bangladesh Army. 

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Runmoy Resort – This beautiful and well-furnished resort is located at the end of Ruilui Para. When you first see this two-storied rest house, it will be hard to believe that you are traveling somewhere in Bangladesh. We are used to seeing this type of house in English movies, so it may seem as though you have come to travel abroad. The resort has five rooms, and each room can accommodate a maximum of four people. Room rent on the ground floor is BDT 4,450, while on the first floor it is BDT 4,950 for civilians. Foreigners will have to spend US$100 and US$150, respectively. There are also five tents, named sequentially as Rock Tents 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. Each tent can accommodate four people, and the rent is BDT 2,850.

Sajek Resort – This round-shaped, magnificent resort is located at the center of Ruilui Para. You will be astonished by its external appearance, but its interior design will fascinate you even more. If you want to make your journey comfortable, you should book a room here. It is a little bit expensive. The resort has only four rooms, including one VIP suite. The rent of the VIP suite is BDT 15,000. The rent of another room is BDT 12,000. The other two rooms cost BDT 10,000 each per day. Foreigners will have to spend US$200–250. Booking must be done through the Giri Thebar of Khagrachari Cantonment. Here are the numbers: 01859025694, 01847070395.

Apart from these, you will also find some quality resorts managed by private owners and local tribal people. One such resort is Alo Resort, which is said to be the biggest resort. It is run by the NGO Alo. This neat and well-organized resort is located in Ruilui Para, very close to Sajek Resort. It has six rooms, including four double rooms and two single rooms. The rent for a double room is BDT 1,000, and for a single room, it is BDT 700.

Megh Machang – If you want to enjoy the beauty of the lush green hills and clouds to the fullest, you should reserve one of the cottages at Megh Machang. The resort has three separate bamboo cottages. These eco-resort-style cottages are located in Ruilui Para of Sajek Valley, Rangamati. The cost for each cottage is BDT 3,000 per day. Each cottage can accommodate 5–6 people and has an attached bathroom. Guests can enjoy the natural landscape through the windows and balconies. For reservations and more information, you can contact this number: 01822-168877.

Emmanuel resort- This standard resort is suitable for individuals who wish to stay with friends or for those who do not mind sharing accommodations. However, it is not the best choice for families. It has eight rooms and a shared bathroom. The room with a rent of BDT 1,500 has two double beds, and the room with a rent of BDT 700 has two single beds. For further information and reservations, contact: 01865349130, 01869490868 (bKash).

Sara Resort- It is another resort located in Ruilui Para. It has four rooms, three with attached bathrooms and one with a common bathroom. The rent for each room is BDT 1,000. If you book all four rooms, it will cost BDT 3,600. Each room has one bed, which can accommodate two people. The rooms are a bit small in size. This rest house is made of tin and has a solar system. Contact number: 01554534507.

Ruilui Para club house- This semi-concrete house was built by the army as a club for people living in this vicinity. If there are many tourists and alternative accommodations are not available, this location can serve as your lodging. It has the capacity to host around 15 people. Each person will have to spend BDT 150–200. Bedding will be provided by the caretaker. Guests have the option to prepare their own meals or ask the caretaker to do so, which will not cost more than BDT 200. This accommodation is ideal for students or those seeking economical lodging. There are two toilets: one can be used for free, and for the other, you will have to pay BDT 200. Contact numbers: 01838497612, 01860103402.

You can even stay in tribal houses located in Kanlak Para, which may cost around BDT 600–1,000, including food. To make your journey more memorable, you may consider camping near Sajek. Several camping sites are available in Ruilui Para. It is advisable to inform the security forces before camping. Prior to traveling, ensure there is an available room in the resorts, and it is recommended to reserve the room by phone before your departure.

Where will you eat?

If travelers stay at Sajek Resort, Runmoy Resort, tents, or Alo Resort, their meals will be arranged by the respective resorts. If you stay in the club house, food can be managed by the caretaker. Those who go camping or stay in tents outside can eat at Maruti Hotel, System Restaurant, or other nearby hotels run by tribal people. You should place your food order at least two hours in advance. Each meal will cost approximately Tk 150–200. If you order from the army-run canteen, they will cook your food, but the price is comparatively higher.

You can contact the resort in advance to arrange food. If there are only a few people, they can go directly to the restaurant and order food. If you order just rice and vegetables, the person in charge of the resort can arrange it. It is better to buy fish or meat from Machalong Haat. Staying at least one night in Sajek is recommended.

What are the nearby tourist spots?

Hajachara and Taiduchara waterfalls, Ruilui Para Church, The Horizon Garden, and Chengi Golf House are some beautiful places you can visit if you have enough time.

Some important tips:

While going to Sajek Valley, do not forget to take a power bank. It will help you keep your mobile switched on. As there is limited electricity, you cannot charge your mobile in most resorts. Mobile network is also a big issue. Only a few telecommunication companies, such as Robi and Grameen, have coverage here. So, you can buy a SIM from any of these companies to stay connected with your friends and family. There is a scarcity of drinking water, so it is better to carry bottles of mineral water from the nearby bazaar. Bring chocolates for tribal children, as they greet tourists with the hope of receiving candy. If they do not get any, they may feel disheartened. Mosquito-borne diseases are very common in hilly areas, so take precautionary measures to protect yourself from these illnesses.