Bhisti: A lost profession

Nowadays, whenever we get thirsty on trains, buses, roads, or restaurants, we get in our hands a sealed cold or normal water bottle. However, we did not have a fridge a few decades ago.

A question may arise: “Did not people drink cold water then?”

Yes, of course, they would.

Even though there was no fridge at that time, there was bhisti. 

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A ‘Bhisti’ is a kind of bag that looks like a sack. This special bag made of goat skin is also called ‘Mashaq’. If you keep water in it, it will remain as cold as a refrigerator. Those who used to deliver water with a bag from house to house are known as ‘Bhisti,’ which means water bearer.

There is a connection between history and the water bag bearers. There is a saying that once Mughal ruler Humayun was drowning in water. Then, a water bearer saved him. He even swam to the shore holding the water bag. As a token of gratitude, Humayun sat the water bearer on his throne for a day.

In Dhaka and Kolkata, in undivided India, these water bearers used to work distributing water.

In this over-smart era, which exists merely in smartphones, today’s generation may not know about water bearers.

‘Bhisti’ is the corruption of the Persian word ‘Behesta,’ which means heaven. In the western and central parts of the world, images of rivers and gardens have been found in most of the images of heaven.

It is said that water bearers would bring water from the river of heaven and distribute it among people. So, they also used to be called angels of heaven.

Once they had exclusive access to heaven.

In the early hours of the morning, coming out on the street and opening the door, we would see the water bearers.

These people of the Muslim community used to go out with leather bags filled with water on their shoulders.

Once, there was the use of water bearers in Delhi too.

However, Mustakim Tea Stall outside Jama Masjid is still able to keep this ancient method alive.

If you go to the tea stall, you will see long bags made of goat skin hanging. For ages, water bearers have been living in Sakke Wali Gali in old Delhi. 

Lalakhal: A river of various colors of water

Lalakhal is situated in Jaintapur Upazila, which is 35 kilometers away from Sylhet city. To be more specific, one will find Lalakhal to be situated just below Cherrapunji Hills in India. This river, which originated from Cherrapunji Hills, flows through Bangladesh. 

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This place is perfect for experiencing nature from very close. Dense green forests on the hills, river, tea gardens, and various species of trees are all over Lalakhal. If you can go on a full moon, the beautiful scene of the river shining with moonlight will leave a lasting impression on your mind. There are numerous bends in the Lalakhal River. Each bend is beautiful to look at. Looking at the mountain range, one would feel like God had beautifully placed them one after another with his own hands. Upon going closer, one will see the clouds around the hills as if they are resting on the slopes. Sometimes they float through the mountains and disappear into the distance.

The part of Lalakhal near Tamabil road is called the Shari River. The most attractive thing about this canal is the water of different colors. The water in each part of the canal has different colors, such as blue, green and clear.

You can go to Lalakhal by a traditional boat or a speedboat on the clear water of the Shari River. After the end of a 45-minute journey, you will reach the factory gorge of Lalakhal tea garden. At this time, you will find the river’s water awe-inspiring. What a beautiful blue color; the bottom of the river is seen.

There is no accommodation for tourists in the Lalakhal area, and it is quite far from Sylhet city. In the evening, there are no boats on the river. So, the tour or sightseeing has to be completed by the evening. The best option is to hire a boat and then travel. The moment before the evening around Lalakhal is never-to-be-forgotten.

If you want to go to Lalakhal then you will have to go to Sarighat by microbus, leguna, or Jaflong-bound bus from in front of Bongobir Osmani Shishu Uddan, which is on the south side of Dhopa Dighi. That is why, you will have to cross a 35-kilometer road. On the way back from here, you can return to Sylhet city by bus or by any vehicle of your choice, including Leguna.

Where will you stay?

If you want, you can spend the night on the bank of Lalakhal. The resort named Northern Resort has its own transport system. Another accommodation arrangement very close to Lalakhal is Nazimgarh Resort, which is located in Khadimnagar. It is better to contact them before going there. Otherwise, you may not get any empty rooms. In Nazimgarh Resort, there are three types of accommodation facilities. It has a large terrace, a small bungalow, and a big villa. The rent for each room is different, but modern amenities are on par with those at a five-star hotel. It has a spa and pool where you can remove fatigue from your body. The most important thing is that each installation is near hillocks that are covered in trees. If you extend your hand while sitting on the balcony of the villa, terrace, or bungalow, you can touch the greenery. The cost of staying at Nazimgarh Resort may seem a little higher than the usual hotels and cottages. The cheapest ‘Premium’ room for one night will cost around Tk 7,000, and the rent for the Presidential Suit is around Tk 15,000. A maximum of three people can stay in one room, but no fare will be charged for children under the age of eight. You will get breakfast for two people with this fare.

Apart from this, you can spend the night in Sylhet city and travel around Lalakhal in one day. Or, the afternoon excursion can be combined with either Bichnakandi or Jaflong. Since it is quite far from Sylhet city, there are no boats on the river in the evening. So, you will have to complete your travel by evening. It is best to travel by renting a boat.

Expenditure:

The rent for a microbus from Sylhet city to only Lalakhal will be between Tk 2,000 and Tk 3,000. If you rent a private car then the rent will be between Tk 1,500 and Tk 2,000. If it is the plan for the whole day then you will have to travel from Sylhet in the morning. Besides, you can go to Sarighat by bus or leguna between Tk 40 and Tk 60. There, the fare for the engine-run boat is from Tk 800-Tk 1,500, and if you want to go by speedboat, the rent can be from Tk 1,500 to Tk 2,000. The boat has at least 15-20 seating arrangements. The rent is the same.