Tuesday, September 29, 2020

Floating markets in Bangladesh

When we think about floating market, the first thing that comes to our mind is an image of a market floating over water located either in Thailand, Italy or India. But do you know that there are some similar types of beautiful floating markets in our country? And you can travel to these spots at low cost in Barisal, which is known as the 'Venice of Bengal'. These floating markets are seen in different rivers of Swarupkathi and Jhalokati in this region. There are three floating markets named Bhimruli, Atghar and Kuriana. Seasonal fruits and vegetables are sold in the first two markets. The other one is the boat market. These floating markets were unknown to most of the people even a few years ago. Thanks to the blessing of social media, the popularity of this market spread gradually. 

Bhimruli Guava Market:
This floating market is operated all year round over a meandering canal of Bhimruli village, which is 15 kilometers away from Jhalokati city. Apart from Jhalokati Sadar Upazila, the nearby Swarupkathi Upazila of Pirojpur district and Banaripara Upazila of Barisal district are also famous for guava farming. Sugandha, Gabkhan, Bishkhali and Sandhya rivers of Jhalokati are the main areas for guava farming in the southern part of the country. This more than 200 years old floating market is organized at a meeting place on the borders of three districts- Barisal, Pirojpur and Jhalokati. Around 20,000 families from 30 villages of three districts are directly involved in guava farming. According to local people, there are around 7,000 guava and hog plum orchards on 31,000 acres of land. 

 

Bhimruli guava market gets its life during the guava season. Farmers bring guavas by the boatloads and sell them to the wholesalers who then carry these guavas by boats to different parts of the country. The interesting thing is that size and design of all boats that come here are almost the same. It seems all boats are made by the same craftsman. Apart from guava, hog plum is also found here. The hog plum season comes after the end of the guava season. The hog plum produced in this area is famous all over the country. And finally comes the betel nut season. Aside from peak season, this market remains busy throughout the year. Besides fruits, the main products here are various types of vegetables. 

At the north end of the floating market, there is a small bridge over the canal. From there, the market is seen very clearly. To enjoy a wonderful combination of natural beauty and rural life, travelers and photographers from different parts of the country, even from abroad, gather here in more than hundred trawlers at this time. 

Bhimruli guava market sits from 10 a.m. By 11 a.m., the market gets crowded with buyers and sellers. Then you can see rows of boats full of guavas are gathering near the market. Both buyers and sellers spend a busy time from 12 pm to 3 pm. If you want, you can buy guava, but the rule is that you will have to buy all guavas of the boat. 

Kuriana Boat Market:

This floating market is situated at Swarupkathi Upazila in Pirojpur district. It will take around an hour to reach this market by an engine-run boat from Bhimruli. Boats are sold in this market. Artisans from different parts of the district come here to sell their boats. Sellers bring a big boat containing several small boats. They then put those small boats on the canal and wait for the buyers. Boats of different sizes are priced between Tk 1,000 and Tk 10,000. Although it opens seven days a week, a large number of sellers and buyers come here on Friday. This floating market filled with hundreds of boats becomes almost two kilometers long. 

 

Atghar Guava Market:

Atghar guava market is almost four kilometers away from Kuriana. It is also a floating market. Farmers carrying guavas in small boats come here from different places. As soon as boats loaded with guavas reach the market, they sell out because wholesalers wait for the farmers. This market is also quite large in size. Large guava orchards can be seen nearby. Small canals pass through guava garden. Farmers enter the garden on small boats and fetch guavas. Besides, the betel leaf farmers also come here to sell their betel leaf. 

 

Which market in which day?

·                     Floating rice market in Banaripara Upazila of Barisal district: Every Saturday and Tuesday

·                     Floating vegetable market at Harta Union in Wazirpur Upazila of Barisal district: Every Sunday and Wednesday

·                     Floating vegetable market at Baitakata in Nazirpur Upazila of Pirojpur district: Every Saturday and Tuesday

·                     Floating guava market at Bhimruli in Jhalokati Sadar Upazila: Everyday (July to October)

If you want, you can rent a small boat or engine-run boat from the bank of the canal and visit the vast guava orchard and floating market. The canal is full to the brim with rainwater, green nature on the bank of the canal and ripe guava on boats. Riding a boat or trawler, you can move around the canal and enjoy the guava orchards on both sides. The ruins of Kirtipasha Zamindar bari is located near the Bhimruli market- you can visit there as well. 

How to go there?

There are many ways to visit these floating markets. From Dhaka, you can go to Barisal either by road or by river, but the best way is river. From Sadarghat launch terminal in Dhaka, many luxurious launches such as 'Surovi', 'Kirtonkhola', 'Sundarban' etcetera leave for Barisal every day at 8pm. For this, you will have to give Tk 5000-7000 for VIP cabin, Tk 4000-4500 for semi VIP cabin, Tk 2500-3500 for family cabin, Tk 1700-1800 for double cabin, Tk 900-1000 for single cabin and Tk 250 per person for deck. If you want, you can go there by paddle steamers- 'PS Mahsud', 'PS Ostrich', 'PS Lepcha' and 'PS Tern', which leave Dhaka for Barisal at 6.30 pm every day except Friday. 

You will reach Barisal at 7 am. Then you will have to go to Natullabad bus stand from where you will have to go to Swarupkathi by bus, auto-rickshaw or any other transport. You can hire a leguna for going to Swarupkathi. Fourteen people can sit in one leguna. If you reserve the whole leguna, it will cost approximately Tk 400-500. You can also rent a small group CNG type Tempo for Tk 250-300. You will reach Swarupkathi at the end of about one and half hour journey. Renting a trawler from Swarupkathi launch ghat, you can go through Sandhya river and visit Atghor, Kuriana and Bhimruli market. Or, from Swarupkathi launch ghat, you can rent an auto-rickshaw for Tk 20 and go to Kuriana bazar, where you can rent a boat or trawler for Tk 200-300 and visit the market and canal around Kuriana. But if you want to go to Bhimruli, the rent will be more. Rent will be Tk 2000-3000. Based on the size, the boats can carry 15 to 20 persons. 

From Gabtoli bus terminal in Dhaka, AC bus of Sakura Paribahan goes to Jhalokati. Price of the ticket is Tk 800 per person. Besides, non-AC buses of 'Hanif Enterprise', 'Druti Paribahan', 'Eagle Paribahan', 'Surovi Paribahan' and 'Sakura Paribahan' also go there with fares ranging from Tk 350 to Tk 450. Apart from this, there is a bus service of Sugandha Paribahan for going to Jhalokati Sadar Upazila from Sayedabad bus terminal in Dhaka. You will have to come to Jhalokati Sadar from Rupatoli Bus Stand of Barisal city. It takes 40 minutes. From there, taking an easy bike, you will have to go straight to Bhimruli bazar. From here, you will have to rent a boat for a few hours. 

Where do you eat?
You will find many small restaurants adjacent to Bhimruli, Atghar and Kuriana bazar. Sokal Sondha restaurant at Kuriana bazar is popular among visitors for its tasty food. This restaurant is locally known as Boudi's Hotel (
বৌদির হোটেল). If your group consists of 5-7 people, there is no need to inform earlier before going there. But if the group is big, you must inform the restaurant beforehand. Eat rice with fresh fish sitting at the restaurant. 

Where do you stay?
You can go and return by daylight. If you want to spend the night, you can come to Natullabad in Barisal. Names of some hotels in Jhalokati are 'Dhansiri Rest House' in Kalibari Road, 'Arafat Boarding' in Batasha Patty Road, 'Halima Boarding' in Sadar Road etc. Rent is Tk 100-250 per night. Besides, you can stay in 'Hotel Ifty' at Miyar Hat in Swarupkathi. Hotel Ifty is built on the bank of the river. So, staying there will be a memorable experience. But if you want to stay in a good hotel, you will have to go to Barisal Sadar, which is twenty kilometers from Jhalokati. 

When do you go there?
The best time to go there is the guava season. July, August and September are the guava season. 

Precaution:
Since you would have to travel by river, you should be very careful while traveling during the rainy season. You must bring a raincoat and a life jacket along with you. Use a waterproof bag or polythene for keeping your mobile phone and money. Keep the necessary medicines with you. Do not ruin the environment by throwing garbage everywhere.

Sunday, August 16, 2020

Dhanmondi Shahi Eidgah: A Mughal Era Eidgah

Dhaka was one of the capital cities of the Mughal Empire. Because this 400-year-old city was established and expanded on the bank of the Buriganga River, most of the Mughal archaeological sites were built in the areas near this river. However, some archaeological sites were built in new Dhaka too. One of the archaeological sites built during the Mughal era in new Dhaka is Dhanmondi Shahi Eidgah, which is situated at Dhanmondi residential area. To be more specific, it is placed at Dhanmondi 6/A on Sat Masjid Road in Dhaka, Bangladesh.


This magnificent Eidgah, which is also known as Mughal Eidgah, was built in 1640 AD by Mir Abul Qasim, a Diwan of Shah Shuja and builder of Bara Katra, upon orders from Shah Shuja, the second son of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan.

During that time, Dhanmondi Shahi Eidgah was far away from the main city. Though there were several Sultanate era Eidgahs in the main city, which is now called old Dhaka, there was no large-sized Eidgah. So, Mir Abul Qasim was looking for a place for Eidgah. Finally, he chose Dhanmondi area. Therefore, the Eidgah was built at Dhanmondi area having been located in an open space somewhere far away from the main city and close to Sat Gambuj Mosque (Seven Domed Mosque). At that time, the communication system, including both waterway and highway, with Sat Gambuj Mosque was good. At that time, a branch of the Pandu River used to flow beside the Eidgah, which would have been connected with the Buriganga River near the present Sat Gambuj Mosque. At the beginning, Subahdar, Nayeb-e-Nazim and elite Mughal officials and their relatives only could say prayer here. General people did not get the opportunity to enter here. Later, the Eidgah was made open for all and devotees from Dhaka and surrounding areas used to come here.

To describe the historical, architectural and heritage value, conservationist architect Abu Sayeed M Ahmed wrote, “This Eidgah is the oldest surviving Mughal monument in Dhaka city. There is no second one with the architectural forms and features similar to it.”

Dhanmondi Shahi Eidgah measures at 145 feet long and 137 feet wide. It is made up of four feet high on land so that it can be protected from flood damage. On four sides of it has an octagonal-shaped tower. There is a three-stepped pulpit on the north-side of the Eidgah, standing where the Imam delivers sermon. The Eidgah is surrounded by 15 feet high wall on four sides. But, at present, only the western wall is at the time of the Mughal period. Central Mihrab is at the center of the western wall. On both sides of the central Mihrab, there are multi-cusped decorated panels. Apart from these, there are two small-sized Mihrabs on both sides. These Mihrabs are situated within the rectangular frame of the walls.

An inspection team of Poribesh Bachao Andolan (POBA) has informed that land grabbers are trying to capture this site. Dhanmondi’s Eidgah ground is a 400-year-old Mughal architectural style. The western side of it has been occupied by building a house in the name of a library.

With proper care and maintenance, it can be one of the most spectacular places for tourists. And it can be done at a low cost. For this, it is very necessary to form a committee consisting of public works division, archaeologist and environmentalist. Without the interference of the government, it is not possible to protect this Mughal heritage site.

Wednesday, August 12, 2020

Poradaha Mela: A 400-Year-Old Village Fair

Bangladesh is called a diversified country because of its varieties of festivals and fairs celebrated throughout the country. One of the village fairs is Bogra’s ‘Poradaha Mela’, which still exists with all the glory. This almost 400-year-old fair is arranged every year at a place named Poradaha, which is located on the bank of the Ichamati River in Gabtali Upazila of Bogra district. It has still retained its old tradition.

Background:
There is no accurate information since when this fair actually started. But it is said that about four hundred years ago from now, there was a big banyan tree in the fair place. There suddenly appeared a monk. Later, the monks built a monastery there. At one stage, this place turned into a sacred place for the Hindus.

Every year, on the last Wednesday of Magh, people belong to the Hindu community arrange the Sannyasi Puja (worship of monk) in that place. Fans from afar gather here. In the course of time, the presence of people in that place starts to increase.

In this way, Poradaha Mela started. Crossing the boundary of religion, this fair is turned into a union of the people of all religions. It is a day-long fair, but the festive mood remains for seven days. Newly-wed couples and relatives celebrate this festival together. While giving invitation, old and new relations are not considered. Following that tradition, everyone participates in the fair and celebrate. At one time, the monks left the place, but the Hindu community did not stop the Sannyasi Puja. Familiarity of this fair starts to increase gradually. People come from afar to visit the fair. Though this Sannyasi Puja is still celebrated, thousands of people of all religions arrive at the fair.

History behind its’ naming:
This fair began on the occasion of Sannyasi Puja. For this reason, at the first stage, its’ name was Sannyasi Mela (Fair of the monk). This fair is held at Poradaha. According to the local people, the fair has been happening in this place for hundreds of years. Hence, it became known as Poradaha fair. As married girls in the nearby villages come to fathers’ house along with their husbands on the occasion of the fair, many people address it as Jamai Mela (Fair of the groom). Some people call it ‘Fish Fair’ because different species and sizes of fish are found in the fair. Despite being called in different names by different people, it is mainly known to all as Poradaha Fair.

Duration of the fair:
The traditional ‘Poradaha Mela’ is organized every year on the last Wednesday of the Bengali month Magh. It is basically celebrated one day. On that day, people from far distance come to the fair. Though the duration of the fair is one day, it is locally celebrated a week. On the occasion of the fair, relatives gather on each house. On Thursday, the day after the main fair, Bou Mela (Bride’s fair) is organized at the same place and in the surrounding villages at a small range. The main fair is held under the supervision of the government, but Bou Mela is organized by the local villagers. This fair is specially organized for those village women who cannot go to the main fair either for the work pressure or for conservative mentality. The specialty of this fair is that only females can enter and purchase here. The most interesting thing is that shopkeepers are also female.

Things sold in the Fair:

Fish:
The main attraction of this fair is different species of fish. At first, in the morning, large fish are gathered in the temporary storehouses installed in the fair. From there, retailers purchase fish according to their needs and take these to their shops in the fair. Purchase continues whole day in the shops.

Rohu, Catla, Mrigal, Boal, Silver Carp, Kali Baush, Pangas, Baghair, Bighead Carp etcetera are notable among different species of fish brining in the fair. Baghair is sold most in the fair. Locally it is called ‘Bagar’ fish. Baghair weighing between 80 kilograms and 100 kilograms is also found in the fair. Besides, Rohu, Catla and Pangas weighing from 15kg to 20kg are also found here.

Furniture:
In the fair, wood, steel and iron made furniture are found at cheap rate.

Cosmetics and gift items:
In the fair, people coming from different districts give shops of high-quality cosmetics and gift items. Children and women usually gather here. There is also found all makeup items including bangles, earring, beads and kajal (Kohl). Among toy items, there are bat, ball, video games etcetera.

Sweets:
Another attraction of this fair is different types of sweets. Rasgulla, Sandesh, Jalebi, Nimki, Tiler Naru (Sesame seeds laddu), Parched rice and dry sweets are found here. More attractions are fish-shaped sweet and large sweets. Each sweet weighs around 1.5 kilograms to two kilograms.

Entertainment:
Alongside shopping, there is enough arrangement for entertainment. For children, there are Nagordola (Ferris Wheel), mini train, horse carriage and circus. For elders, there are motorcycle game, Jatra pala, and cultural programs.

Transportation system:
If you want to visit this traditional fish fair then you will have to travel to Poradaha, which is under Mahishban union of Gabtali Upazila in Bogra district. The only way of going there is bus. From Dhaka, you will have to go to Bogra by bus or private car. From there, you will have to go to Golabari bazar through Fateh Ali Bridge in Chelopara and Chandan Baisha road either by bus or CNG. You will have to take a CNG or auto rickshaw from Golabari CNG stand. They will directly take you to the fair. If you find it hard to get the location then ask the local people. They will help you get the destination.