Ratargul Swamp Forest: The Amazon of Bangladesh

It is an enormous forest where rows of trees stand in a wetland. Their trunks are submerged in water. This woodland is so dense that even the scorching sunlight cannot penetrate the leaves to reach the water below. That is why a large portion of this forest remains greenish in color. When you look around, all you see are water and trees. The highland is beyond your sight. It may give you the impression that you are trapped in a submerged forest. This is not the end. There is danger everywhere. While exploring this jungle, visitors may come across snakes hissing from nearby trees and anonymous birds flying overhead. Apart from the sound of water droplets and the rustling of the wind, no other noise will reach your ears. Birds such as eagles and vultures perch atop the trees, waiting for their prey. Upon reading such a description, the first thought that may come to your mind is the Amazon forest. However, you will be astonished to know that this narrative is about Ratargul Swamp Forest. It bears a striking resemblance to the Amazon. Because of this similarity, it is often referred to as the Amazon of Bangladesh. 

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In the local language of Sylhet, the Murta plant, the raw material of which is used for making Shitalpati, is known as “Ratagach.” This forest is named Ratargul after this Murta, or Ratagach, tree.

Brief history:

It is essential to have basic information about Ratargul Swamp Forest before planning your visit. It is the only recognized swamp forest in Bangladesh. Moreover, it is one of the twenty-two freshwater swamp forests globally, which attracts visitors from both within the country and abroad. In the Indian subcontinent, there are only two of them—one is located in Sri Lanka, and the other is in our nation. The water in this forest is as clear as crystal. You can not only see the reflections of the trees in the water, which makes the water appear green, but you can also see the bottom layer. The Government of Bangladesh has taken measures to preserve this forest under the Department of Forestry.

As the season changes, the beauty of this forest changes too. For this reason, it looks different in different seasons. The diversity of its natural environment draws the attention of tourists throughout the year. However, the best time to visit Ratargul is during and after the rainy season.

Ratargul Swamp Forest is connected to the Gowain River via a lake named Chengir Khal. During the rainy season, water coming from the hills of India flows into the lake through the river and submerges the entire forest. This state of weather remains the same from May to early October, and the temperature stays around 32 degrees Celsius. It drops to 12 degrees Celsius in January. During the monsoon season, the depth of water ranges from 20 to 30 feet, while the water level decreases to 10 feet throughout the rest of the year.

However, during the winter season, we can see a completely different scenario. The forest becomes dry at this time, and only the water reservoirs excavated inside the forest retain water. This area transforms into a sanctuary for migratory birds.

If you visit Ratargul Swamp Forest, you can try kayaking. The thrill you experience while navigating a kayak is distinctly different from traveling by boat. With a kayak, you can enter any part of the forest and stop whenever you wish, something a boat cannot offer. Once inside the forest, take a moment to sit silently in the kayak, where sunlight cannot penetrate due to the dense trees. All around, even in broad daylight, you can hear the chirping of crickets, the murmur of the stream, the sudden flapping of birds’ wings, and see huge trees rooted in the water, along with the panoramic views from the watchtower. Above all, you are bound to be impressed.

Location:

To visit this marshland forest, travelers will have to go to Gowainghat Upazila of Sylhet Division. This unique swamp forest is located approximately 26 kilometers from Sylhet city. The total area of the forest spans 30,325 acres, of which 504 acres were declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1973.

How will you go there?

If you reside in Dhaka or any other division of Bangladesh, you must travel to Sylhet first. From Sylhet, your next destination will be Ratargul. There are two primary routes to get there. The choice of which route to take is entirely yours.

Firstly, let us discuss the easiest route to reach Ratargul Swamp Forest. To do this, you need to hire an autorickshaw from Ambarkhana Point in Sylhet city. The journey may take approximately one and a half hours to reach Motorghat. From there, you can rent either an engine-driven boat or a regular boat, which will probably cost Tk 300–400 per person. After your visit, you will return to Sylhet using the same route.

The second option is expensive as well as time-consuming. If you intend to visit Jafflong at the same time on the same route, you can proceed with this plan. This journey also requires the use of two boats to navigate through the forest. You may opt for an autorickshaw from Ambarkhana Point in Sylhet city or take a bus bound for Jafflong from Sobhanighat as your mode of transportation. Whatever transport you choose, you have to travel to Gowainghat Upazila, which is approximately a two-and-a-half-hour journey. After reaching there, you have to hire an engine-run boat for a round trip on a contract basis. It may cost around Tk 1,500. Boarding this boat, you will have to go to the Forest Bit Office of Ratargul. There, you have to shift to smaller boats to enter the forest.

If you are visiting for the first time, it is better to hire a guide. A guide may charge BDT 150 per hour.  

Flora and Fauna:

The presence of different species of plants and animals has significantly enhanced the appeal of this forest. To date, it is home to 73 species of plants, which cover 80 percent of the forest with their upper parts, commonly referred to as the umbrella of the trees. While exploring the forest, visitors will often see Banyan trees. Apart from these, one can see Millettia pinnata (Koroch tree), Barringtonia acutangula (Hizal tree), Sacred Garlic Pear or Temple Plant, and Alstonia scholaris (Chatim tree). Although it is a natural forest, the Forestry Department of Bangladesh has planted several aquatic plants, including Calamus tenuis, Burflower Tree, Schumannianthus dichotomus, etc.

After exploring Ratargul Swamp Forest, you may feel tempted to swim in the water. However, do not attempt to do so because this submerged area is inhabited by numerous venomous and dangerous animals, most of which live underwater. Snakes and worm snakes are frequently seen in this waterlogged forest. In the dry season, mongooses can be spotted. Additionally, this area is inhabited by monkeys, water monitors, insects, and various bird species, including Heron, Egret, Kingfisher, Parrot, Bulbul, Swan, Dove, Waterfowl, Eagle, and Kite. The best time to watch Cotton Pygmy Geese, migratory birds, and the nearly extinct Vulture is during the winter season. It is also a source of several local fish species, including Batasio, Rita, Pabda, and Rohu.

Precautions:

This submerged forest is not a safe destination for tourists who lack swimming skills. Boats may capsize and cause the death of visitors. To prevent drowning due to a boat accident, you should wear a life jacket. During the rainy season, when the water level rises, venomous snakes take shelter in the trees. If you visit the place at this time, avoid touching the trees or water carelessly. For added safety, you can also carry carbolic acid.

Food and accommodation facilities:

There is no good restaurant close to Ratargul Swamp Forest. Therefore, visitors are advised to collect any food items they need from Gowainghat Bazaar. In Sylhet city, there are several high-quality hotels. You can choose any of the hotels according to your needs and budget. It is heard that the Department of Forest is building a rest house for tourists. It will undoubtedly help provide accommodation for them.

In the end, I would like to request everyone to refrain from polluting the forest by littering empty bottles, packets of chips, and biscuit packets here and there. We must remember that this is our valuable resource, so it is our responsibility to keep it neat and clean. 

Sajek Valley: The Land of Clouds

Sajek Valley is perhaps one of the most sought-after tourist destinations for travel lovers. Its stunning natural beauty has earned it the name the queen of the hills. This is not an exaggeration. If we conduct a survey to determine the most beautiful locations in Bangladesh, this undulating area will undoubtedly secure the top position. Because of its lush greenery, pleasant weather, and tranquil atmosphere, it is often referred to as the paradise of Bangladesh. It is also known as the roof of Rangamati. 

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Explorers call Sajek Valley the land of clouds. A team of clouds plays here, surrounded by picturesque mountains and dense forests. Walking through the clouds and feeling them with your hands will make anyone excited. Traveling to Sajek through the kingdom of clouds along the zigzag, up-and-down hilly roads, which resemble giant snake spirals, is truly something great.

The panoramic view of the countryside from the top of the mountain and the waves of clouds will fascinate visitors. It is an all-weather tourist spot where tourists can experience different types of weather in a single day. In the morning, the surrounding area is covered with thick clouds, which prevent one from seeing the bottom while standing on top of the mountain. 

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Sajek derives its name from a river that flows into the Karnafuli River in the Chittagong Hill Tracts. The things that attract tourists here are the sunset, rain, morning, evening, and night, as well as the indigenous people. Additionally, visitors can purchase products made by the indigenous community from the haat (market) for their friends and family members.

Where is it located?

Sajek is a union in Baghaichari Upazila of Rangamati District and is the largest union in Bangladesh. It covers a vast area—even surpassing the size of many upazilas in the country. Situated to the northeast of Khagrachari District at an elevation of 1,800 feet above sea level, Sajek stands out for its impressive landscape. The original Sajek Valley consists of two neighborhoods- Ruilui and Kanlak. These are called para in the local language. Indigenous people from the Lushai, Pankua, and Tripura communities mainly reside here. Located only 10 km from Mizoram in India, Sajek is also renowned for its orange orchards.

Sajek is such a place where, if you are lucky, you can witness three different aspects of nature within 24 hours. At times, the weather can be extremely hot. After a little while, rain begins to fall suddenly, and soon after, a layer of fog may cover the area. At night, when the solar lights illuminate the apex of this remote mountain, they create a remarkable atmosphere. Many children gather under the streetlights to read books or engage in play.

In Sajek, there are three helipads, each with its own unique beauty. You can also walk from Ruilui to Komolong Para, a scenic area situated well above sea level. Do not forget to taste the oranges during the harvest season, as the oranges of Sajek are considered the best in Bangladesh. The Bangladesh Army has also established a small loom industry for the residents of Ruilui Para, where visitors can purchase beautifully crafted towels and lungis.

When is the best time to visit Sajek Valley?

If you want to visit Sajek Valley for tourism, winter is the best time. However, if you enjoy adventure and wish to experience the true beauty of the mountains, the rainy season is the best time to visit.

How will you go to Sajek Valley?

There are many direct buses from Dhaka to Khagrachari. You can take a bus from the Gabtoli and Saidabad bus terminals. You will find both AC and non-AC buses. The price range of tickets is between Tk 520 and 700. Prices may increase over time.

From Khagrachari, there are three ways to reach Sajek: Chander Gari, CNG, and motorcycle. The most popular way is to reserve a jeep (locally known as Chander Gari) from Khagrachari city. The rent is BDT 4,500–5,500, and one jeep can carry up to fifteen people. If you are traveling in a group, it is best to go by Chander Gari for more fun. If you plan to return before sunset, your costs will be BDT 4,000–5,000. If you decide to stay overnight, you have two options for your return trip:

1.   After reaching Sajek, release the car but keep the driver’s number and tell him to come when you call.

2.   Stay in Sajek at night, and when you return the next day, you will find many Chandar Gari going back empty after dropping off passengers. You can return to the city with one of them at a cheaper rate.

If there are few people, you can take a CNG from Khagrachari to go there. It will cost around BDT 3000.

In addition, you can reach Sajek by motorcycle. In that case, you will first need to go to Dighinala from Khagrachari city. From there, you can continue to Sajek by motorcycle. A motorcycle can accommodate three people, including the driver. You can reserve a round-trip motorcycle ride for approximately Tk 1,000–1,200. If you can bargain, the fare may be slightly reduced. Alternatively, you can take a bus from Khagrachari to Dighinala, which will cost each passenger Tk 45.

Where will you stay?

Accommodation is perhaps the main problem here, as there are very few resorts or rest houses. So, if you visit Sajek Valley during government holidays, you may not find any place to stay. There are two beautifully decorated resorts—Runmoy and Sajek—which are managed by the Bangladesh Army. 

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Runmoy Resort – This beautiful and well-furnished resort is located at the end of Ruilui Para. When you first see this two-storied rest house, it will be hard to believe that you are traveling somewhere in Bangladesh. We are used to seeing this type of house in English movies, so it may seem as though you have come to travel abroad. The resort has five rooms, and each room can accommodate a maximum of four people. Room rent on the ground floor is BDT 4,450, while on the first floor it is BDT 4,950 for civilians. Foreigners will have to spend US$100 and US$150, respectively. There are also five tents, named sequentially as Rock Tents 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. Each tent can accommodate four people, and the rent is BDT 2,850.

Sajek Resort – This round-shaped, magnificent resort is located at the center of Ruilui Para. You will be astonished by its external appearance, but its interior design will fascinate you even more. If you want to make your journey comfortable, you should book a room here. It is a little bit expensive. The resort has only four rooms, including one VIP suite. The rent of the VIP suite is BDT 15,000. The rent of another room is BDT 12,000. The other two rooms cost BDT 10,000 each per day. Foreigners will have to spend US$200–250. Booking must be done through the Giri Thebar of Khagrachari Cantonment. Here are the numbers: 01859025694, 01847070395.

Apart from these, you will also find some quality resorts managed by private owners and local tribal people. One such resort is Alo Resort, which is said to be the biggest resort. It is run by the NGO Alo. This neat and well-organized resort is located in Ruilui Para, very close to Sajek Resort. It has six rooms, including four double rooms and two single rooms. The rent for a double room is BDT 1,000, and for a single room, it is BDT 700.

Megh Machang – If you want to enjoy the beauty of the lush green hills and clouds to the fullest, you should reserve one of the cottages at Megh Machang. The resort has three separate bamboo cottages. These eco-resort-style cottages are located in Ruilui Para of Sajek Valley, Rangamati. The cost for each cottage is BDT 3,000 per day. Each cottage can accommodate 5–6 people and has an attached bathroom. Guests can enjoy the natural landscape through the windows and balconies. For reservations and more information, you can contact this number: 01822-168877.

Emmanuel resort- This standard resort is suitable for individuals who wish to stay with friends or for those who do not mind sharing accommodations. However, it is not the best choice for families. It has eight rooms and a shared bathroom. The room with a rent of BDT 1,500 has two double beds, and the room with a rent of BDT 700 has two single beds. For further information and reservations, contact: 01865349130, 01869490868 (bKash).

Sara Resort- It is another resort located in Ruilui Para. It has four rooms, three with attached bathrooms and one with a common bathroom. The rent for each room is BDT 1,000. If you book all four rooms, it will cost BDT 3,600. Each room has one bed, which can accommodate two people. The rooms are a bit small in size. This rest house is made of tin and has a solar system. Contact number: 01554534507.

Ruilui Para club house- This semi-concrete house was built by the army as a club for people living in this vicinity. If there are many tourists and alternative accommodations are not available, this location can serve as your lodging. It has the capacity to host around 15 people. Each person will have to spend BDT 150–200. Bedding will be provided by the caretaker. Guests have the option to prepare their own meals or ask the caretaker to do so, which will not cost more than BDT 200. This accommodation is ideal for students or those seeking economical lodging. There are two toilets: one can be used for free, and for the other, you will have to pay BDT 200. Contact numbers: 01838497612, 01860103402.

You can even stay in tribal houses located in Kanlak Para, which may cost around BDT 600–1,000, including food. To make your journey more memorable, you may consider camping near Sajek. Several camping sites are available in Ruilui Para. It is advisable to inform the security forces before camping. Prior to traveling, ensure there is an available room in the resorts, and it is recommended to reserve the room by phone before your departure.

Where will you eat?

If travelers stay at Sajek Resort, Runmoy Resort, tents, or Alo Resort, their meals will be arranged by the respective resorts. If you stay in the club house, food can be managed by the caretaker. Those who go camping or stay in tents outside can eat at Maruti Hotel, System Restaurant, or other nearby hotels run by tribal people. You should place your food order at least two hours in advance. Each meal will cost approximately Tk 150–200. If you order from the army-run canteen, they will cook your food, but the price is comparatively higher.

You can contact the resort in advance to arrange food. If there are only a few people, they can go directly to the restaurant and order food. If you order just rice and vegetables, the person in charge of the resort can arrange it. It is better to buy fish or meat from Machalong Haat. Staying at least one night in Sajek is recommended.

What are the nearby tourist spots?

Hajachara and Taiduchara waterfalls, Ruilui Para Church, The Horizon Garden, and Chengi Golf House are some beautiful places you can visit if you have enough time.

Some important tips:

While going to Sajek Valley, do not forget to take a power bank. It will help you keep your mobile switched on. As there is limited electricity, you cannot charge your mobile in most resorts. Mobile network is also a big issue. Only a few telecommunication companies, such as Robi and Grameen, have coverage here. So, you can buy a SIM from any of these companies to stay connected with your friends and family. There is a scarcity of drinking water, so it is better to carry bottles of mineral water from the nearby bazaar. Bring chocolates for tribal children, as they greet tourists with the hope of receiving candy. If they do not get any, they may feel disheartened. Mosquito-borne diseases are very common in hilly areas, so take precautionary measures to protect yourself from these illnesses. 

Kusumba Mosque: A Medieval Era Mosque in Bangladesh

Like most travel enthusiasts, seeing the Kusumba Mosque featured on the country’s five-taka banknote piqued my interest. That is why I wanted to learn more about this centuries-old historical and religious site in Naogaon. The Varendra district, which depends on agriculture, is located near the northwestern border. This historic mosque was featured on this particular banknote because of its architectural style and aesthetic importance. The mosque is considered one of Bangladesh’s national heritage sites and is commonly referred to as the “Black Gem of Bangladesh.” 

This beautiful mosque is located in the tranquil Kusumba village of Kusumba Union under Manda Upazila, approximately 35 kilometers away from the bustling Naogaon district town. It is situated just 400 meters north of the western side of the well-known Manda Bridge on the picturesque Rajshahi Highway. Every day, hundreds of curious visitors come here to catch a glimpse of the beauty of this mosque.

The Kusumba Mosque is one of the significant monuments of the Sultanate period in Bangladesh. According to the time of laying its foundation stone, this mosque has been standing for 527 years, proudly showcasing its rich heritage. There is a large pond covering nearly 100 bighas on the north-south side near the mosque. Its length and width are approximately 1,200 feet and 900 feet, respectively. It was excavated to provide the villagers and worshippers with drinking water, as well as for bathing and ablution.

Inside the mosque, in the northwest corner, there is a seat positioned on a raised platform that was used to conduct judicial activities during that time. A short distance from the entrance, one can see a box-shaped black stone, which is popularly believed to be a child’s grave. However, the Arabic inscription on the stone confirms its connection to Husain Shah’s memory.

The Kusumba Mosque is rectangular in shape. It is 58 feet long and 42 feet wide. The roof of the mosque, which resembles a traditional rural thatched hut, is slightly curved from north to south. The mosque is surrounded by six-foot-thick walls. In addition, the exterior is covered with stones. The front part of the mosque has three doors: two of them are large, while the other is comparatively small. The doors are shaped like arched mihrabs. The mihrabs of the Kusumba Mosque are decorated with stone-carved designs, and rose motifs are carved along the Qibla wall of the mosque. The mosque’s outer walls also exhibit remarkable craftsmanship. The arch of the main entrance is decorated with beautiful ornamental carvings. At the four corners of the mosque, there are four towers (minarets), one in each corner. These towers are as tall as the walls of the mosque and are octagonal in shape. The roof has six domes, which are arranged in two rows. 

The domes in the second row of the mosque are relatively smaller in size. During the earthquake of 1897, the outer walls surrounding the mosque and many parts of the structure, especially the domes on top, were almost completely destroyed. Despite this severe damage, the original structure of the mosque survived. Later, the mosque was brought to its original shape by the Department of Archaeology. Inside the mosque, there are two pillars. On the northern side, in front of the mihrab, a two-story room was built on a stone pillar. This space was formerly known as the Zenana Gallery, which was designated for women, where they would offer their prayers. This mosque is nicknamed Kala Pahar, meaning Black Hill, or Kala Ratno, meaning Black Gem. This could be a possible reason for the nickname, as some of the mosque’s outside walls were covered with black plaster.

On the western wall inside the mosque, above the three stunning mihrabs, one can find clay tiles decorated with exquisite terracotta artwork in geometric patterns. The mihrabs showcase designs of various flowers, vines, hanging chains, and beautiful artistic decorations, which are a wonderful blend of Muslim architectural art. These carvings are of exceptional quality. Two mihrabs on the southern side are notably large, while the mihrab on the northern side is comparatively smaller. The mosque has two additional doors, one on the north side and the other on the south side. In front of the mosque, there is an open courtyard and a stone-paved staircase that leads down to the pond.

It is believed that a converted Muslim by the name of Sabarkhan or Sulayman built this mosque. The dates on the two inscriptions of the mosque have led to confusion in people’s minds regarding its period of establishment. However, the inscription at the main entrance confirms that this mosque was erected in 1558 AD. This construction took place during the reign of Afghan ruler Sultan Ghiyasuddin Bahadur I, a descendant of Sher Shah. Based on this information, the mosque is currently 467 years old. According to another inscription, the foundation stone of the mosque was laid in 1498 during the reign of Sultan Alauddin Hussain Shah by his minister or administrative officer. By that calculation, the mosque is now 527 years old. According to urban legends, Sultan Alauddin Hussain Shah laid the foundation stone, while Sultan Ghiyasuddin Bahadur Shah completed its construction. It took almost 60 years to complete the mosque.

The origin of the name of Kusumba village is the subject of numerous tales. Kusum Bibi, the wife of Alauddin Husain Shah, the Sultan of Gaur, came to this region and lived here for a few days. The village was subsequently named Kusumba in her honor. Then, a mosque was built in Kusum Bibi’s honor. However, historians believe that there is no historical evidence to support this claim.

How to go there?

By taking any bus from Dhaka to Rajshahi, you can visit the Kusumba Mosque, located near the Rajshahi-Naogaon highway. The fare for AC and non-AC buses from Dhaka to Rajshahi ranges from 680 to 1,400 taka.

Food and accommodation:

There is a district council rest house (Dak Bungalow) in Naogaon. In addition, there are several standard residential hotels. You can enjoy affordable meals at various sweet shops and restaurants in Deluabari Bazar, Naogaon.

Chander Gari: Will this vehicle take you to the moon?

There are many types of vehicles around the world- bullock carts, pushcarts, buses, trucks, private cars, and more. However, many people may not be familiar with the “Chander Gari.” They might frown and ask, “Is this a vehicle from the Moon, or a means of travelling to the Moon by purchasing a ticket?” Not at all. It is actually a very familiar vehicle in the hilly regions of our country. The Chander Gari is an old, open-sided jeep from the British era. Uneven roads are not an issue, nor even the overload of passengers, it keeps moving at its own pace. Riding in this vehicle gives you a true sense of the saying “the life of a koi fish.” Although it is referred to as public transport, it carries everything from people to goods and all kinds of items. 

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The Chittagong Hill Tracts consists of three districts- Rangamati, Bandarban, and Khagrachhari. The first modern facility that reached this remote area was the Chander Gari. Rujalmoy Bawm from Harmon Para in Ruma Upazila of Bandarban shared his thoughts on this, stating, “In our backward and stagnant life, this Chander Gari appeared as the blessing from God several decades ago from today.” The life-restoring energy of their lives is spread across the mountains and forests. Anything beyond this was unimaginable for them. A police station used to take two to three days or even more to reach on foot can now be accessed easily thanks to this vehicle.

Ruzalmoy mentioned that many individuals in their community have never set foot in a police station. They have never seen a paved road or the glow of electric lights. The main reason for this is the long and arduous mountainous path that must be traversed on foot. It is hard to believe that even in the 21st century, there are still such people in our country. Regardless, the Chander Gari serves as one of the means of transportation for the hill residents.

There is no reliable information on why the British era jeep later became known as the ‘Chander Gari’ (Moon Car). However, two main stories circulate in the region regarding this name. The first suggests that engine-powered vehicles were unimaginable to the indigenous hill people. When they saw it in reality, they thought this might have come from the moon (since the moon is used as a metaphor for beauty and prosperity). The second story is that since this vehicle moves upward, traversing the uneven hilly terrain, they assumed that it might be able to reach the moon as well.

It is against the nature of a Chander Gari to leave behind any passenger standing by the roadside. It does not even know how to behave so discourteously. Although each vehicle has 18 to 20 seats, a peculiar sight can be seen on the Ruma-Boga Lake route. Often, more than fifty passengers are loaded into a single vehicle. Passengers are carried not only inside, on the roof, but also on the bumpers and even on the front engine. Sometimes, goods are also seen being carried in these places. Often, the windshield in front of the driver is completely covered by the mass of goods or passengers. Only about a foot and a half of space remains for the driver to see through. Even then, the driver manages without any difficulty. It is common to see passengers sitting on the roof, dangling their legs over the windshield of the jeep. For the convenience of the driver, they are asked to keep a small gap between their legs. The driver continues on the road by carefully looking through that small gap.

When visiting Sungsungpara of Ruma Upazila, one can observe that the Chander Gari has also reached there. However, there is no proper road for vehicles to go there. When asked about it, Robert Bawm, a merchant from a section of the village, said that ginger has been harvested from the Jhum. To transport this large quantity of ginger, this temporary arrangement has been made. However, the last road that is accessible to vehicle in this remote hilly region extends up to Pasingpara, which is about 1700 feet above Sungsungpara. Yet, despite the winding and curving path, this vehicle has reached there.

On the way to Pukur Para, a popular spot for tourists, you can see Chander Gari running near the remote Anopara. The altitude of this area is at least 2,500 feet above sea level. Woods are cut from the deep mountain forests and transported using these strange vehicles on poorly constructed roads. A woodcutter said that each vehicle carries approximately three tons of wood per trip.

If you look closely, you will notice that no part of the vehicle is in perfect condition. The original structure has been lost over time due to repeatedly replacing, welding and patching of different parts. From distance, it looks like a beehive filled with people, wobbling as it moves forward. We spoke with Khupati Marma and Laltan Tripura, drivers of the Chander Gari on the Baittapara to Boalkhali route in Langadu Upazila of Khagrachhari district. They said that road accidents do not happen in the hills that much compared to the plains. They have not experienced any accidents in their ten-year long driving career.

However, it has been observed that the number of Chander Gari has been increasing in the hilly areas recently. In that case, open-roof Toyota, Tata, and Bolero vehicles are becoming quite common and are often referred to as “Chander Gari.” In reality, the number of “Chander Gari” is decreasing day by day because there is no opportunity for the new ones to be added. Recently, several locations in the hilly areas have become quite popular. During the season, thousands of tourists visit there. Many of them choose to travel by Chander Gari. 

Boga Lake: The Dragon Lake of Bangladesh

Bogakain Lake, or Boga Lake, is a naturally formed lake that originated approximately 2,000 years ago. It is located at an altitude of about 1,246 feet (380 meters) above sea level, nestled at the foot of Keokradong Hill, which is 17 kilometers from Ruma Upazila in the Bandarban district. According to geologists, this lake was formed either from the crater of an extinct volcano or as a result of a meteorite impact. Over time, rainwater collected in this crater, eventually creating a large, rectangular-shaped lake. 

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Boga Lake is known to many as Dragon Lake. Tourists who visit are captivated by its changing beauty at dawn, dusk, and night. The cool and tranquil water of the lake instantly relieves the fatigue of the journey. Covering an area of about 18.56 acres (75,100 m²) at the foot of the mountain, with a stunning display of the sky, mountains, and blue water, Boga Lake has become a unique attraction for tourists.

This freshwater lake is surrounded on three sides by towering mountain peaks, which are lush with thick bamboo bushes. Being a closed lake, it has no outlet for water to drain away, nor does it receive water from any external sources. The only water source for the lake is rain, although there is a small spring or waterfall called Boga Chhara located 153 meters below the lake. The average depth of Boga Lake is 38 meters.

The water in the lake is so clear that you can see fish swimming underwater. There is a mystery hidden beneath the surface. The surface of Boga Lake is covered with rocks and boulders of various shapes. Chemical experts have stated that the high acidity levels make the lake unsuitable for growing any kind of plant life or supporting animals. However, the intriguing part is that both flora and fauna can still be found there.

There are mythological stories and legends from the Bawm, Marma, Mro, Khumi, and Tripura communities about the creation of Boga Lake. One such myth states that there was a Bawm village and a Murung village located near the lake. The local indigenous communities include the Bawm, Murung or Mro, Tanchangya, Tripura, and others. According to their folklore, a dragon used to live in a cave in the mountain long ago. In the Bawm language, the dragon is called “Boga.” To appease the dragon deity, local people would sacrifice livestock. However, one day, some people killed the dragon deity. Immediately after its death, a deafening roar erupted from the cave, followed by a burst of fire that turned everything to ash. After that, the hilltop turned into a submerged lake, destroying the surrounding villages. Though there is no factual evidence for this myth, the fire-breathing dragon in the story and the lake’s crater-like structure align with the idea of a dead volcano. 

In another mythological story, it is said that Boga Lake was once a wealthy Mro village. A large snake used to live in a tunnel near the village. One day, some villagers caught the snake and ate it. Due to the villagers eating the snake, the serpent king (Nagraj) took revenge, causing the entire village along with its inhabitants to sink, leading to the creation of Boga Lake. Still, many Bawm and Mro people believe that when the serpent king, who lives in the depth of the lake, shakes its tail, the lake’s water becomes murky.

According to some senior citizens, the origin of the lake was connected to a deity that the inhabitants of Khumi Village killed and ate. This divine being later reappeared to them in the form of a dragon. Suddenly, an earthquake struck, causing the hillside to collapse and the village to vanish, leaving behind a deep lake in its place.

It is quite difficult to travel to Boga Lake during monsoon, but it is convenient to go there in winter season. Still, many adventure-loving tourists accept the hardship to be captivated by the beauty of Boga Lake. The entire route from Bandarban to Boga Lake is a zigzag mountain path. The beauty of this path will attract you and the fatigue of the journey will fade away.

How to go to Boga Lake?

No matter which part of the country you live in, you will first have to come to Bandarban to go to Boga Lake. From Arambagh, Fakirapool, Abdullahpur, and Sayedabad in Dhaka, buses of different transports like S. Alam, Saudia, Saintmartin Paribahan, Unique, Hanif, Shyamoli, Dolphin, etc. depart for Bandarban. The fare per person of these busies is approximately BDT 800-900 for non-AC and BDT 1200-1800 for AC respectively. It takes about 8-10 hours to go to Bandarban from Dhaka by bus.

If you want to go there by train, you can go to Chattogram by taking Parjatak Express, Cox’s Bazar Express, Sonar Bangla, Subarna Express, Turna Nishitha, or Mahanagar Godhuli from Dhaka. The ticket price ranges from BDT 405 to BDT 1398, depending on the class. Moreover, you can travel directly from Dhaka to Chattogram by air.

Two buses named Pubali and Purbani depart for Bandarban from Bahaddarhat in Chattogram. On these two buses, the fare for each person is BDT 220. You can travel to Bandarban from the Dampara Bus Stand in Chattogram by bus for a fare of BDT 200–300.

From Bandarban to Boga Lake:

If you want to go to Boga Lake from Bandarban city, you must first go to Ruma Bazar. The distance from Bandarban to Ruma Bazar is approximately 43 kilometers. You can go to Ruma Bazar by local bus or Chander Gari (classic blue jeep). If you want to travel by bus, you must go to the Ruma bus stand in Bandarban. From there, buses depart for Ruma every hour. The fare for each person is BDT 120, and the journey takes about three hours. If you travel in a group, you can go to Ruma Bazar by Chander Gari. This vehicle can accommodate 10-15 people. You will have to rent this type of vehicle for BDT 3000-4000 from the jeep station in Bandarban city. Traveling by jeep will take around two hours.

Upon reaching Ruma Bazar, the first thing you need to do is hire a guide to go to Boga Lake. It is mandatory to take a guide. There are registered guides available, and you need to arrange for one of them. Before departing, you need to get permission from the Ruma Bazar Army Camp to travel to Boga Lake. For this, the identities of all traveling members must be submitted in writing. The guide will help you with these procedures. Also, you must keep in mind that permission to travel from Ruma Bazar to Boga Lake is not granted after 4 PM.

The distance from Ruma Bazar to Boga Lake is approximately 17 kilometers. After obtaining permission, you will need to hire a Land Cruiser Jeep or a Chander Gari. One vehicle can accommodate 8-15 people. You can take the help of a guide for these tasks. If you explain what you need to the guide, they will generally arrange everything for you. From Ruma Bazar to Boga Lake, the reserve fare for a Land Cruiser is BDT 1800, while the fare for a Chander Gari is BDT 2000. If you have a small group, you can talk to another group and arrange to hire a vehicle together. Alternatively, you can buy a ticket and travel by local transport. From 8 AM to 4 PM, local transport, Chander Gari, operates every hour. The fare for local transport to Boga Lake is BDT 100 per person.

Currently, you can travel directly by vehicle from Ruma Bazar to Boga Lake. However, during the rainy season, if the road is in poor condition, vehicles may not be able to reach Boga Lake directly. 

Accommodation and food arrangements at Boga Lake:

There are no high-quality hotels or resorts at Boga Lake. However, there are around 20 small cottages owned by the indigenous people. You will have to stay in one of these cottages. Among them, Siam Didi’s cottage, Laram’s cottage, and Robert’s cottage are the most popular. Some cottages are built on elevated bamboo platforms right next to the lake. Staying in these indigenous cottages, surrounded by a completely natural environment, will cost BDT 100-200 per person. A one-room cottage can accommodate 5-6 people. Besides, separate cottages can be arranged for couples or female travelers if desired. If you have a preference in advance, inform the guide when going there, and he will arrange the cottage for you. Alternatively, you can arrange it upon arrival. 

If you plan to go there during the off-season, you do not need to reserve a cottage in advance. However, if you plan to visit during the peak season, you must make a reservation before your journey. The best time to visit Boga Lake is winter. The weather during that period is pleasantly dry and comfortable, allowing you to avoid any weather-related difficulties. If you are an adventurer who enjoys challenges and wants to experience the real beauty of the mountain, then you must visit during the monsoon or just after the end of the rainy season. 

You will have to make food arrangements in the indigenous houses. Usually, food packages are available for BDT 100-200. The food arrangement typically includes rice, eggs, mashed potatoes, and mountain chicken. For this, you must inform in advance what you would like to eat and how many people will be eating. If you want to have food upon arrival, you can inform the guide before traveling. The cottages have barbecue facilities. You can buy mountain chicken and enjoy this unique experience while sitting by the lake.

Boga Lake travel tips:

Ø  There is no electricity at Boga Lake, but there is an arrangement for a solar power system. You can carry a power bank with you to charge your mobile.

Ø  Not all mobile networks are available at Boga Lake. The networks of Robi and Teletalk are available here. So, you can carry a SIM card from either of these network providers.

Ø  Recently, some accidents have occurred at Boga Lake. So, be careful while bathing in the lake.

Ø  The lifestyle of indigenous people is not like that of people living in plain areas. Always try to avoid doing anything that may disrespect them.

Ø  Take permission before taking photos of indigenous people. They may not like having their photos taken without permission.

Ø  The entire road from Bandarban to Boga Lake is a zigzag hilly road. Be careful while traveling.

Ø  You can keep a copy of your national identity card with you for safety.

Ø  You must get permission from the army camp to go to Boga Lake. You must also report when coming back.

Attention: Any tourist spot is a valuable asset of our country. Refrain from doing anything that is harmful to nature and its beauty. Encourage others to do the same. This country is ours, and it is our responsibility to take care of everything in it.

Caution: Hotel, resort, transportation rental, and other costs change over time. Therefore, the information published here may not be up to date. Please plan your trip based on the latest information before traveling anywhere.